Bitter-Sweet Reminiscings About a Giant Bitter Lemon

Nithin: We came across this unique lemon called vadukapuli naranga at the Ernakulam Market. I heard it’s used for pickles. What is it called where you’re from or where you grew up? What do you use it for?

Tsarina: It’s bitter and has a thick skin. It’s used for pickles when in season, so that it’s “mature” in time for Onam. It’s also sundried with salt and curry leaves, and stored in glass jars. It is great when eaten with curd rice. [My] grandma used to do this. She sprinkled a pinch of powdered sugar on the last day of drying it—sheer umami! The flavours are intense: bitter, salty, sour, offset with slight sweetness and a grassy flavour of dried curry leaves. Some fried cashew bits and this dried lemon generously sprinkled over curd rice, oof! On another note, as kids, we called it VADUTHALA naaranga, haha.

Cynthia: At least our generation has all these wonderful memories. I remember my grandmother in Kanjirapally, making manga thera (mango leather) on paya (mats) in the open. It was such a process in summer, under the bright sun. They had neither preservatives nor required refrigeration. The thera today doesn’t come anywhere near in taste or texture.

Ajit: This is mostly used to make pickles: one with red chilli, and another with kandhari and ginger. I have been eating it since childhood, as it grows in our house only in my native place. You can also use it in buttermilk—just mix crushed green leaves with ginger and chilli.