DECEMBER 2025
The Local Food Club’s December 2025 theme, Street Food, came alive through a series of walks across cities in India. In Delhi, the walk focused on Shaheen Bagh, a neighbourhood shaped by migration, marginalisation and memory.
Led by Chef and Author Sadaf Hussain, the walk traced how people who found refuge in Shaheen Bagh carried their food traditions with them and slowly stitched together a new culinary landscape. More than just a cluster of eateries, Shaheen Bagh, in the last few years has emerged as a living archive of movement and settlement, where kitchens became anchors and recipes became acts of continuity in uncertain and turbulent times.
Each stop revealed how food, memory, and migration intersect in this part of the city, offering a lens into Delhi that goes beyond familiar Old Delhi narratives.
The walk munched through with Pushtoon Chapli Kebabs, a coarse-textured kebab made with minced meat, spices, and herbs, pan-fried to a crisp edge. This was followed by Lucknow-style Galawati Kebab, known for its soft, almost melting texture, shaped by a long tradition of refined Awadhi cooking.
Participants then tasted the Dilli Nihari, a slow-cooked meat stew traditionally eaten in the early morning, rich with marrow and spice, followed by Hyderabadi Haleem, a thick, nourishing preparation of meat, lentils, and wheat cooked down over hours.
The walk continued with Bihari Kebab, marinated with mustard oil and spices, and Pulao Gosht, where rice and meat come together in a deeply comforting dish. The trail also included Maquti, a traditional sweet dessert pudding from Bihar. The experience was rounded off with chai, offering a pause to reflect on the stories carried in each bowl and plate.
The food on this walk was primarily meat-based, reflecting the culinary traditions central to Shaheen Bagh’s identity.
Glimpses of the incredible food on the street food walk in Shaheen Bagh, Delhi. Photos by LFC Delhi members.
“ The walk with Chef Sadaf was one of the best Saturday nights I’ve had in a while. Shaheen Bagh, which I had last visited in 2020, has grown into such a vibrant market, shaped by the different communities which have settled there. Sadaf spoke openly about the politics behind the kitchens in Shaheen Bagh, all while feeding us indulgent, meaty dishes one after the other. They were the kind of dishes you keep coming back to, and I plan on doing exactly that!”
Jahnavi
“I thoroughly enjoyed the walk! Hoping this becomes a monthly event.”
Mayank
Sadaf Hussain is a chef, food writer, and two-time TEDx speaker who co-hosts the podcast ‘Naan Curry’. His work spans restaurant consulting, research projects, and essays that explore not just food but the histories, customs and stories surrounding it.
You can also read an excerpt from his book ‘Masala Mandi’ here (need to link), along with a Nihari recipe from the book if you want to recreate the flavours of the walk at home here.