Growing up, paneer was always a comfort food for Chef Jasleen Marwah. Her mother, Jashpal would often tell her that as long as there was paneer in the fridge, there was always something for her to eat. Jasleen’s early fondness for milk-based cheeses only grew with time, eventually drawing her towards cheeses of all kinds.
It was only after she began working as a chef that her love for cheese led her to something more specific—kalari, a native Kashmiri cheese that remains relatively unknown outside of Jammu & Kashmir. Jasleen discovered it on one of her trips to Jammu, and has since showcased kalari at pop-ups across India. She also makes it from time to time at Folk, a restaurant she owns and runs in Mumbai.
Kalari comes from the Bakarwals, the nomadic shepherd communities of Kashmir who move through the mountains with their herds. With an abundance of milk and no way to keep it fresh while travelling, they turned to cheesemaking as a way of preserving it. Kalari is one of the cheeses that emerged from this tradition.
| Onion, thinly sliced | 1, medium |
|---|---|
| Vinegar | 1 teaspoon |
| Salt | ¼ teaspoon |
| Red chilli powder | ¼ teaspoon |
| Oil or ghee | 1 teaspoon |
| Kalari cheese, straight from the fridge | 150 grams |
| Kulcha or pav | 2 |
| Green mint chutney | 2 tablespoons |
| Tamarind chutney | 2 tablespoons |
| Anardana masala | 1 teaspoon |
What You Will Need
Frying pan or tawa
Instructions
Toss the sliced onions with the vinegar, salt, and red chilli powder until well coated. Set aside to marinate while you prepare the cheese. This step is optional, but the tangy onions are a classic accompaniment to kalari.
Heat the oil or ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Once hot, place the kalari cheese straight into the pan while it is still cold from the fridge. Do not defrost it.
Leave the cheese undisturbed as it begins to soften and melt. As it cooks, it will spread slightly across the pan and develop a beautifully crisp, golden-brown underside.
Once the underside is well-browned and the cheese has softened but is still holding together, carefully flip it over. Cook until the other side is also golden-brown.
While the cheese is cooking, warm the kulcha or pav on the tawa or pan, right next to the cheese. If using pav, split it open and toast the cut sides until lightly golden.
Place the hot, browned kalari cheese inside the warm kulcha or pav. Spoon over the green mint chutney and tamarind chutney, then top with the marinated onions.
Finish with a generous sprinkle of anardana masala and serve immediately, while the kalari is still warm, gooey, and gloriously crisp around the edges.
Tips:
Kalari is best cooked straight from the fridge, so resist the temptation to bring it to room temperature or defrost it. Keep an eye on the heat as it cooks. You want the cheese to brown beautifully without burning. Serve it immediately for the best texture and flavour.
Chef Jasleen Marwah( @namakswaadanusaar) is a home chef-turned-restaurateur. With a passion for preserving culinary heritage, she brings the rich flavours and cultural nuances of her homeland, Kashmir, to life. Now the proud owner of Mumbai-based restaurant Folk, she celebrates traditional regional meals from across the country, offering a menu that reflects her dedication to reviving India’s diverse culinary traditions.
Editor: Ishani Banerjee
Copy Editor: Khorshed Deboo
You must be logged in to rate this recipe.
Login with Google
Sign in with email