The origins of the Odia Patrapoda go back to the tribal villages of Odisha, where the locals employed the method of leaf-wrapped cooking. In Odia, ‘patra’ means ‘leaves’ and ‘poda’ means ‘burnt,’ quite literally translating to ‘burnt leaves’. The technique involved wrapping the food in leaves and cooking it over an open flame, often placed in the smoldering embers of earthen ovens dug into the ground. The heat from the fire would char and crisp the leaves, forming a protective layer that shielded the food from getting burnt. This technique not only lent the food encased in the leaves a rich smoky flavour but also trapped the steam, allowing the food to cook gently. Once ready, the leaves would be unwrapped to reveal an evenly cooked dish—one that required minimal effort yet offered exceptional taste.
Leaf-wrapped cooking isn’t unique to Odisha alone; it’s a tradition shared across India. In Kerala, Meen Pollichathu is a fish preparation cooked in banana leaves. In Bengal, you’ll find Bhapa Ilish, while the Parsis have their own version with Patra ni Macchi. However, Odisha’s Patrapoda stands out because the leaves are entirely edible, an apt example of utilising what would otherwise be discarded.
It was on his Chef of the Road trip through Odisha in 2019 that Chef TZac learned this technique from Alka Jena, who prepared the dish using straw mushrooms, native to Odisha.
| Prawns | 700 grams, medium |
|---|---|
| Black mustard seeds | 1 ½ teaspoons |
| Cumin seeds | ½ teaspoons |
| Green chillies | 3 |
| Garlic cloves | 2-3 |
| Ginger, chopped | 1 teaspoon |
| Turmeric powder | ¼ teaspoon |
| Water | ¼ cups |
| Onions, finely chopped | 2 pieces |
| Coriander | a handful |
| Mustard oil | 2 tablespoons |
| Lime | ½ |
| Pumpkin leaves, cleaned and trimmed | 6-8 |
What You Will Need
Mixer grinder, Flat iron skillet, Mixing bowls
Instructions
Start by deveining the prawns (use a small knife to pull out the black vein that runs along the back). Once deveined, remove the tails by gently pinching and pulling them off. Set the prawns aside on a plate and ensure they are fully cleaned and dry.
In a small bowl, soak the mustard seeds in water for 10-15 minutes to soften. The seeds will absorb the water and become a little more pliable.
Once soaked, add cumin seeds, one whole green chilli, garlic, ginger, and turmeric powder to the mustard seeds in a grinder jar and blend into a smooth, thick paste.
If the paste is too thick, add a little bit of water to help it blend smoothly. The consistency should be thick but spreadable.
Finely chop the remaining green chillies—you can adjust the number depending on how spicy you prefer the dish.
Roughly chop half of the cilantro (the other half will be used as a garnish later).
In a large mixing bowl, place the cleaned prawns. Add the finely chopped onions, green chilies, half of the chopped cilantro, and the freshly made mustard-cumin-turmeric paste.
Squeeze the juice of half a lime over the prawns to balance out the acidity.
Drizzle in the mustard oil.
Mix everything well using your hands or a spoon, ensuring the paste and oil are evenly distributed over the prawns. If using hands, gently massage the marinade into the prawns so that the flavours are better absorbed. The prawns should feel slightly oily but not overly coated.
Take the cleaned and trimmed pumpkin leaves and place them flat on a clean surface. Depending on the size of the leaves, place one or two prawns per leaf.
Place the marinated prawns in the centre of the leaf, then carefully fold the sides of the leaf over the prawns, wrapping them tightly but gently. You can also add a clove of peeled garlic and a slit green chilli with the prawns to each portion.
Repeat the process for all prawns and leaves. The wraps should resemble small green parcels.
Heat a tawa on medium-high heat. To test if it’s hot enough, sprinkle a few drops of water on the surface—the water should sizzle immediately.
Drizzle a little oil onto the hot tawa and place the prawn-wrapped leaves onto the tawa and grill on medium heat. Don’t overcrowd the tawa; the wraps should have space to cook evenly.
Cook the wraps, turning them periodically to ensure they’re evenly charred on all sides. This should take around 10 minutes—look for a slight charring and a crisp texture on the outside. The prawns inside should cook through and absorb the smoky flavour from the tawa.
Place them on a plate, squeeze some lime juice, and serve hot.
Tips:
If you have trouble deveining the prawns, you can make a shallow slit along the back of the prawn and easily pull it out.
Have some extra leaves handy in case it takes a few attempts to get the folds right.
Thomas Zacharias, or ChefTZac, is a chef with nearly 15 years of professional cooking experience, and arguably a lot more if you count the early start he got in his grandmother’s kitchen in Kerala. The first phase of his career was centered around European cuisine, starting out as a line cook at Le Bernardin, New York City’s famed three Michelin star eatery in 2009. But in 2014, a culinary expedition across India made him rethink his entire approach to food. He went on to helm the kitchen at The Bombay Canteen as Chef Partner, finding inventive ways to showcase indigenous ingredients through contemporary regional Indian cuisine. In 2022, Chef Zac decided to bring together some of his passions—storytelling, working with local produce, and nurturing connections between people within the Indian food system—and founded The Locavore to do good through what he knows best: food.
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