For Kolkata-based Jayeeta Ghosh, this dish brings back a memory from Rangpur, Bangladesh, where she first tasted Rui Macher Dim Diye Biran, a preparation of fish roe, rice, and lentils. Unlike the crispy fritters or fried roe that is more commonly made in Bengali households, this version was slow-cooked with soaked chana dal, Gobindobhog rice, and softened onions, then gently spiced and finished with a drizzle of mango-pickle oil. Served on a simple steel plate, it left an impression not for its presentation, but for the flavour and comfort it offered.
In Bengal and its eastern neighbours, fish roe—especially from freshwater rui (Labeo rohita) or katla (Catla catla)—is a seasonal delicacy. Often overlooked in favour of more popular cuts of fish, the roe in this recipe blends with the masala and rice, lending a mild brininess. The choice of Gobindobhog, a short-grained, aromatic rice, adds a soft, fragrant texture.
This dish sits somewhere between a khichuri and a pulao. For Jayeeta, it’s a reminder that even the simplest meals, when cooked with care, can carry stories, places, and people with them.
| Bengal gram dal (chana dal) | 100 grams |
|---|---|
| Gobindobhog rice | 200 grams |
| Potato | 1, medium |
| Onion | 1, large |
| Mustard oil | 3 tablespoons + extra for frying |
| Bay leaf | 1 |
| Green cardamom | 2 pods |
| Cinnamon stick | 1-inch stick |
| Cloves | 3 |
| Raw fish roe (rui macher kacha dim) | 120 grams |
| Turmeric powder | ½ teaspoon |
| Salt | to taste |
| Ginger paste | 1 teaspoon |
| Garlic paste | 1 teaspoon |
| Red chilli powder | ½ teaspoon (adjust to taste) |
| Coriander powder | 1 teaspoon |
| Cumin powder | ½ teaspoon |
| Water (for cooking the masala) | 2–3 tablespoons |
| Green chillies, slit | 3–4 |
| Sugar | ½ teaspoon (optional) |
| Hot water | 2 cups approx |
| Aamtel (raw mango-infused mustard oil) or ghee | 1 teaspoon |
|---|
Kadhai or deep-frying pan; Measuring spoons and cups; Strainer (for washing the rice and dal); Spatula; Mixing bowls; Strainer or colander
Start by soaking ½ a cup of Bengal gram dal (chana dal) in water for at least 1 hour. Drain using a strainer and set aside.
Wash 1 cup of Gobindobhog rice thoroughly under running water until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in fresh water for 20 minutes, then drain and set aside.
Peel and dice 1 medium potato into small cubes. Lightly fry these in a small pan with a little oil until golden and slightly crisp. Set aside.
Peel and thinly slice 1 large onion. Set aside.
Begin by heating 3 tablespoons of mustard oil in a kadhai until it reaches smoking point, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the bay leaf, green cardamoms, cinnamon, and cloves. Sauté for a few seconds until fragrant.
Add the thinly sliced onions and fry them until golden brown. Next, add the raw fish roe along with turmeric powder and salt. Sauté the mixture, breaking up the roe gently with a spatula until it turns crumbly and dry. This step helps eliminate any raw smell and improves texture.
Add the ginger and garlic pastes, red chilli, coriander, and cumin powders, and a splash (about 2–3 tablespoons) of water.
Cook this masala mixture until the oil begins to separate and the spices are well roasted and aromatic. Stir continuously to avoid burning.
Add the lightly fried potatoes, soaked dal, and soaked rice to the masala. Mix everything well and sauté for 2–3 minutes so that the grains and dal are well coated with the spices.
Add the green chillies, salt to taste, and sugar (if using). Pour in 2 cups of hot water and stir well.
Cover the pan with a lid and let it cook on medium heat until the water is absorbed and the texture is semi-dry, similar to a bhuna khichuri.
Drizzle 1 teaspoon of aamtel or ghee over the cooked khichuri before serving.
Serve warm with a squeeze of lime, or begun bhaja, or just as it is.
Aamtel is usually available in the market. However, to make it at home, slice raw mangoes, rub them with salt and turmeric, and sun-dry until slightly shrivelled. Mix with mustard oil, nigella seeds (kalonji), and a little red chilli powder. Store it in a jar to let it mature.
Jayeeta Ghosh (@haarirkhobor) is a home chef and writer from Kolkata who brings regional nuance and nostalgia into her cooking. A former marketing strategist, she now runs a culinary venture Haarir Khobor, offering curated pop-up menus that celebrate both Bengali heritage and fusion innovation.
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