For Kochi-based Tsarina Abrao Vacha, a fifth-generation baker, the Christmas season is inseparable from the bustle at her family bakery, Rozario’s. Here, the air was always thick with the aroma of Christmas cakes emerging from ‘borma’ ovens, while jewel-toned dried fruits, baskets piled high with eggs, round cake tins wrapped in brown paper waistbands, and pans of caramel simmering over firewood stoves filled the space. This was accompanied by the constant, rhythmic thrum of bakers chopping dried fruits and nuts.
These memories shaped the creation of this recipe for the December edition of The Local Food Club’s potluck themed around street food. Tsarina says, “From pazhampori on the streets of Kochi to beignets in New Orleans, fried foods occupy a central place in public eating. This apple fritter draws on that shared tradition, with Christmas fruit cake forming the core of the batter.”
| Apples, cored and thinly sliced | 4, medium |
|---|---|
| Cinnamon powder | 1 teaspoon |
| Nutmeg powder | ¼ teaspoon |
| All-purpose flour (maida) | 120 grams | 1 cup |
|---|---|
| Cornflour | 60 grams | ½ cup |
| Baking soda | ¼ teaspoon |
| Salt | ¼ teaspoon |
| Ice-cold water | 240 ml | 1 cup approx. |
| Christmas fruit cake or plum cake, crumbled | 250 grams |
| Oil | as required |
| Powdered sugar, to dust | 2 tablespoons |
Heavy-bottomed kadhai or saucepan for frying; mixing bowls; slotted spoon; cooling rack or plate lined with absorbent paper; refrigerator
Place the sliced apples in a bowl.
Add the cinnamon and nutmeg powders.
Toss gently to coat the slices evenly. Set aside for 30 minutes to allow the spices to infuse the fruit.
In a separate bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, cornflour, baking soda, and salt.
Gradually add the ice-cold water, whisking continuously to avoid lumps.
The batter should be thick and smooth, similar in consistency to a pakora batter—thick enough to coat the apples without dripping excessively.
Gently fold in the crumbled Christmas fruit cake until evenly distributed.
Cover and rest the batter in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to allow the flavours to meld (this step may be skipped if short on time).
Heat oil in a deep kadhai over medium heat. The oil is ready when a small drop of batter sizzles and rises steadily to the surface.
Dip each apple slice into the batter, ensuring it is well coated.
Carefully lower the coated slices into the hot oil, a few at a time, without overcrowding the pan.
Fry until the fritters are deep golden brown and crisp, turning gently for even cooking.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper.
Just before serving, dust the fritters lightly with powdered sugar.
Serve warm.
Ensure the oil temperature remains steady; oil that is too hot will brown the fritters before the batter cooks through.
Pears or firm bananas can be used in place of apples.
Tsarina Abrao Vacha is a fifth-generation baker and the great–great-granddaughter of Ignatius Rozario, who founded one of India’s earliest bakeries, Rozario’s, in Cochin in 1852. She is the founder of tsaDOUGH in Kochi, where she bakes naturally leavened sourdough and seasonal goods. Alongside baking, she writes on local food cultures and hosts supper clubs focused on regional food histories.
You can find her on Instagram @tsadough
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