Meen Pollichathu is one of Kerala’s most iconic fish preparations, especially in the Cochin–Kuttanad belt of Kerala. Traditionally made with Karimeen (pearlspot), a firm, flavourful freshwater fish, the dish is known for its layered masala, its use of banana leaf, and the smoky aroma that develops when the wrapped parcel hits a hot tawa.
Growing up in Kerala, I tasted this dish everywhere: in homes along the backwaters, in small eateries, and most memorably at the Grand Hotel in Cochin, whose version has remained a reference point for generations. Pollichathu has several regional variations, but the essentials don’t change—coconut oil, curry leaves, tomatoes cooked down until jammy, and the banana leaf that seals everything together.
For the Mumbai Koli Project, I substitute Karimeen with Ghol, a coastal fish whose soft, buttery texture responds beautifully to this style of cooking. While not traditional, Ghol absorbs the masala well and stays moist when wrapped and cooked slowly. This version stays faithful to Kerala’s flavours while adapting to Mumbai’s coastline.
| Coconut oil | 2 tablespoons + for shallow-frying |
|---|---|
| Shallots, sliced | 2 cups |
| Curry leaves | ½ cup |
| Ginger, paste | 2 tablespoons |
| Garlic, paste | 1 tablespoon |
| Green chillies, chopped | ½ -¾ tablespoons |
| Red chilli powder | 2 teaspoons |
| Turmeric powder | ½ teaspoon |
| Black pepper powder | ½ teaspoon |
| Coriander powder | 1 tablespoon |
| Tomato, sliced | 2 cups |
| Coconut milk, fresh | ½ -1 cup |
| Salt | to taste |
| Sugar | a pinch |
| Banana leaves | 2 |
| Ghol, fillet | 2 pieces/ 320 grams |
What You Will Need
Wide tawa or flat pan; blender; kitchen scissors/knife (for trimming the leaves); kitchen towel
Instructions
Heat the coconut oil in a pan, add the sliced shallots, and sauté on medium heat until browned.
Add the curry leaves, ginger and garlic pastes; cook for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
Add green chillies, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, black pepper powder, and coriander powder. Cook for 2–3 minutes.
Add the sliced tomatoes and cook for 15 minutes, until soft and jammy, and properly browned. Stir in the coconut milk and simmer briefly for 1–2 minutes. Season with salt and a small pinch of sugar.
Wash, dry, and cut the banana leaf into large rectangles.
Gently warm each piece over the flame or on a tawa until pliable. Wipe clean.
Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper.
Coat each fillet liberally with the masala (about 1 cup per fillet).
Place the fish on the centre of the leaf, spoon some extra masala on top, and wrap tightly into a parcel.
Heat a tawa with a drizzle of coconut oil.
Place the parcels seam-side down.
Cook on medium heat for 10–12 minutes, turning every 2–3 minutes.
The leaf should char lightly, releasing aroma while the fish steams inside.
Rest for 1 minute before unwrapping and serving.
Tips:
- Karimeen fish is the most authentic for this recipe; ghol, pomfret, and tilapia are good substitutes.
- The banana leaves should be pliable, not brittle—warming them slightly is essential.
- The fish should steam, not fry—avoid using high heat.
- Small onions (shallots) lend a more authentic flavour than large onions.
Thomas, known widely as ChefTZac, is a chef, storyteller, and food systems advocate with nearly 15 years of professional cooking experience. After training at the Culinary Institute of America and working at Le Bernardin in New York City, he returned to India to explore the depth of regional cuisines, later helming the kitchen at The Bombay Canteen as Chef Partner.
In 2022, he founded The Locavore, a platform dedicated to Doing Good Through Food by championing local ingredients, producer communities, and culturally rooted knowledge systems. His work now sits at the intersection of food, memory, sustainability, and community—shaped by years of travelling across India to learn directly from home cooks, farmers, and indigenous communities.
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