HANDS OF TRANSITION

Photo Essay: Can Coffee Survive the Climate Crisis Without Forests?

As unseasonal rains and rising temperatures reshape India’s coffee landscapes, smallholder growers working with Black Baza—a coffee enterprise—show how preserving biodiversity is the most apt climate mitigation strategy.

YASHVI SHAH | 16 FEBRUARY 2026

Black Baza works closely with smallholder coffee growers like Rangamma who prioritise the preservation of their ancestral forest home, and the wildlife that inhabits it. Photo by Harsha Vadlamani.

INTRODUCTION

In the southern parts of India, small-scale producers grow coffee across densely forested regions, including Biligirirangana (BR) Hills, Kodagu, and Chikkamagaluru in Karnataka; the Nilgiris and Palani Hills in Tamil Nadu; and Wayanad in Kerala. These regions—spanning dry deciduous groves and montane grasslands—are places teeming with life: endangered species of flora and fauna, forest-dwelling communities, and smallholder farmers all coexist here. 

Wildlife—including endangered species like the Indian Gaur, Nilgiri Tahr, and Lion-tailed Macaque—moves freely in these regions. Forest-dwelling communities, such as the Soligas of BR Hills, cultivate coffee in harmony with nature, under the shade of native trees like cluster fig, jackfruit, and jamun. 

Over the last decade, however, these regions have witnessed a significant increase in temperatures and fluctuating, unseasonal rainfall. “In 2025, it rained throughout the year, from June-July up until October-November,” says Arshiya Bose, founder of Black Baza, a speciality coffee enterprise—and The Locavore’s partner producer—that works closely with smallholder coffee growers in BR Hills, the Nilgiris, Palani Hills, and Wayanad. The unrelenting rain, with an almost negligible gap between the Southwest and Northeast monsoons, impacts forests and, in turn, coffee production. 

Most conventional coffee plantations rely on monoculture farming or plant invasive species like silver oak to intensify production and boost yields. However, for Black Baza, it is crucial to grow coffee sustainably. They are of the firm belief that biodiversity is inherently valuable, and that it should be conserved whether it is of use to anyone or not. It also helps that the rich biodiversity found across these forests—that double as coffee farms—acts as ecological indicators, significantly contributing to the region’s ecosystem in the form of shade trees, birds, and insects that act as pollinators, and mammals whose presence connotes a thriving forest.  

What is abundantly clear is that in order for growers to persist contributing to the diversity and sustainability of the Indian coffee sector, especially in the longer run, it is important for them to work with the forest. This begets the question: Is preserving biodiversity the best climate mitigation strategy?

We spoke to the team at Black Baza about how growing coffee in tandem with the forest—especially as unseasonal rains and leaf rust outbreaks reshape India’s coffee landscapes—offers a blueprint for the future. 

“In the longer run, more than adaptation, the goal is to restore native vegetation in the form of shade trees”

In parts of southern India, light rains—also called blooming showers—arrive around February, marking the beginning of flowering season among coffee plants. Fruits then sprout and ripen over the next seven months. Photo by Arshiya Bose.

Once the coffee fruits ripen in November, growers like M Kethegowda and Kethamma, who belong to the Soliga community residing in BR Hills, pick and sort them by hand. Photos by Harsha Vadlamani.

However, for a smooth coffee growing season, timely rains and pollination are of utmost importance. Scanty showers in February—lately the result of the climate crisis—diminish the blossoming of flowers, resulting in a lack of pollination and, therefore, a decrease in the production of coffee fruits. Photo by Arshiya Bose.

A lack of pollinators is a direct result of using pesticides, along with a dearth of natural vegetation. “If you’re growing coffee in a way where there are no pollinators or seed-dispersers [including birds like Malabar pied-hornbills and white-cheeked barbets] then you’re hurting [coffee] fruits on your farm,” says Arshiya. Photos by Radha Rangarajan.

For growers like Kollegowda (left) and M Sannarangegowda (right), spotting endangered and endemic species of animals, birds, and insects on their farms is a sign of good farming practices. Once the species are identified, coffee growers employ agricultural practices that help conserve them. Photo by Harsha Vadlamani.

“You can take your coffee into a lab and test for chemical pesticides or residues, or you can go to a farm and check for moths and butterflies on that farm,” explains Arshiya. “This tells you the same thing: There’s not much human disturbance and chemical usage; this is what allows moths and butterflies to flourish.” Photo by Harsha Vadlamani.

On these coffee farms, all species, no matter how big or small, provide ecosystem services. Arachnids like the Giant Wood Spider act as natural pest controllers by eating various beetles that feed on the coffee fruit. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

Ungulates like barking deers, on the other hand, feed on unwanted weeds, eliminating the need for weedicides. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

India, unlike other coffee growing regions in the equatorial belt, experiences prolonged periods of scorching summer and droughts. During these months, native tree canopies like jackfruit provide shade for coffee plants, preventing them from drying out. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

Rising temperatures and humidity, along with impacting the presence of biodiversity, have given way to an increase in fungal outbreaks, leaf rust, mold growth, and berry rot. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

Instead of relying on chemicals like urea, and Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK), smallholder farms use leaf litter from native trees as fertiliser. Ficus religiosa, or Peepal, pictured here, because of its complex root systems, helps prevent soil erosion and support water retention in the soil. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

On the other hand, excessive rainfall in November, right when the fruits ripen, leads to premature fruit drop, making the fruits and, thereby, the coffee plants, susceptible to fungal outbreaks. Photo by Arshiya Bose.

Excessive rain also impacts the drying process. Growers like Kethegowda now build raised drying beds to dry the coffee fruit instead of drying it on the ground. While these adaptations help alleviate some of the challenges that come with the climate crisis, they are not long-term solutions. Photo by Harsha Vadlamani.

“In the longer run, more than adaptation, the goal is to restore native vegetation in the form of shade trees,” says Arshiya. This brings down temperatures, changes the conditions in which coffee plants are grown, and ensures that forests remain shared spaces—undisturbed and uninterrupted by human life. Photo by Radha Rangarajan.

Read more about Black Baza’s coffee growing practices

A Better Future, Fuelled by Cups of Good Coffee

Attempting to bridge the growing gaps between producers and consumers of coffee, Grounds For Change addresses matters of traceability, fairness, and taste. Yashvi Shah offers a glimpse into the daily realities of coffee growers M Kethegowda and M Sannarangegowda, who were central to the project’s vision.

Know Your Desi Ingredients

Jackfruit is the world’s largest tree-borne fruit—meaty when raw, sweet when ripe, and used from root to seed in a variety of dishes.

Yashvi Shah is the Partnerships Copywriter at The Locavore. In her free time, she likes creating playlists for her friends, and going on runs.

We are grateful to Arshiya Bose and Radha Rangarajan for their inputs for this story. To read more about Black Baza and their practices, check out our producer page here.

Learn more about The Locavore’s growing community of food producers here.

This story is part of a collaboration between The Locavore and Hands of Transition, and attempts to illuminate how food producers across India are adapting to a changing climate—through locally rooted knowledge, ecological practices, and collective strength. Know more here.​