HANDS OF TRANSITION
From Rani Athani to Khadkya Ambemohar: Why Conserving Indigenous Rice Varieties Matters for the Future
Once home to 1,00,000 native rice varieties, only a few thousand survive in India today. To understand the impact of this loss on our food systems, we spoke to Shailesh Awate, co-founder of OOO Farms, about why preserving and reviving these varieties is at the centre of their work, and the promise this holds in a rapidly warming world.
DEEPSHIKA PASUPUNURI | 9 JANUARY 2026
INTRODUCTION
In the tribal hamlets of the Western Ghats, OOO Farms works with Adivasi communities to bring back heirloom rice varieties once lost to hybridisation and industrial processes. Since 2017, they have preserved thousands of diminishing varieties by setting up seed banks, where farmers dedicate a part of their land for varietal conservation, thereby promoting agrobiodiversity in their regions.
From the 1960s onwards, the Green Revolution has significantly impacted the diversity of farmlands across India. While the production of rice doubled—owing to the introduction of high-yield alternatives—it did so at the expense of native seed cultivation. As a result, an estimated one lakh varieties of indigenous rice, which evolved over centuries and were well-suited to their microclimates, were lost in the aftermath.
Policies enacted during this period also came with adverse environmental and social consequences. Nutritious crops were replaced by uniform varieties, soil health and groundwater quality degraded substantially, and agricultural systems became more prone to climate fluctuations. Over time, farming communities found themselves increasingly dependent on external markets, deepening socio-economic divides that continue to affect smallholder farmers.
“Community seed banks [put] crop diversity in the hands of farmers, not in the hands of corporations. It’s a very localised system,” says Shailesh Awate, co-founder of OOO Farms. “So with the changing climate, seed conservation becomes even more important.”
Watch the full interview with Shailesh, conducted by Mukta Patil, Projects Editor at The Locavore, to know why the revival of native seeds is at the centre of the ecosystem OOO Farms is working towards, and how it holds the answers to some of the most pressing challenges within our agricultural systems.
Watch here:
EXPLORE OOO FARMS’ WORK:
Since 2017, OOO Farms’ work has spanned across Maharashtra, Gujarat, Odisha, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, and West Bengal, with 4,357 native landraces of rice collected and exchanged over time from different farmers and brought together to create seed plots.
Rice Diversity Block at Chota Udepur Seed Conservation Plot. Aiming to dispel the notion that rice is a water-intensive crop, OOO Farms grew several varieties in a region where rainfall is scant, through practices rooted in tribal wisdom.
OOO Farms distributes seeds free of cost to farmers, who multiply them, and bring them to a sizeable harvest. Pictured here are two red rice varieties: Aruvadaham Kuruvai Rice (left) and Raktshaali (right).
Farmers from the Rathwa community sowing seeds at rice conservation plots in Chota Udepur, Gujarat.
At Harishchandragad, native rice—including Raibhog, Kalbhaat, Rani Athani, Ambemohar, Khadkya Ambemohar, Gari Kolpi, Hali Kolpi, Balram Kamod, Madhophy, and Jondhali—are sown by farmers from the Mahadeo Koli and Thakkar communities.
Hansabai, a farmer from the Mahadeo Koli community.
Rice transplantation in Kalsubai Wildlife Forest Reserve, Maharashtra.
Rice conservation plot in Chota Udepur, Gujarat.
Native seeds have evolved over centuries in the hands of tribal communities. Pictured here are farmers from the Rathwa community (left) and the Mahadeo Koli community (right).
Kattuyanam is a red rice native to Tamil Nadu. ‘Kattuyanam’ literally translates to ‘forest elephant’ in Tamil, as it grows to an impressive height of 7-8 feet, tall enough to potentially conceal a wild elephant in the field.
Some of the rice varieties OOO Farms works with include Krishna Saal (left), and (right; from left to right) Bokul Bora, Sukalya, Ramgully, Raktashali, and Tulshya.
Morphological readings of rice varieties are taken to maintain genetic purity. This ensures that characteristics which make them resilient to floods, droughts, and climate volatility are not lost due to cross pollination.
Farmers from the Rathwa community taking readings at the growing stage. Each year, around two lakh genetic records are documented by OOO Farms’ farmers.
Ramgully rice, also called rice with wings, is one of several varieties OOO Farms conserves.
Transplantation of rice varieties at Chota Udepur, where each strand is separated to avoid mixing.
Rice Mill run by women farmers working with OOO Farms' in Rajkot, Gujarat.
Short-grain rice, packaged and sold by OOO Farms.
Diverse varieties of rice sold by OOO Farms, including (left to right) Stony Ambemohar, Sahyadri Black, Krishna Kamod, Black Jack rice, and HMT Unpolished Brown rice.
Conserving Native Seeds
Over the last nine years, more than 4,000 rare and diminishing rice varieties have been conserved through OOO Farms’ seed banks and seed-saving practices. These varieties adapt to the changing climate, improve yields, biodiversity, and nutritional security, increase farmers’ autonomy and reduce their reliance on markets.
Democratising access to native seeds is essential to OOO Farms’ work. By distributing them completely free of cost to farming communities, their ethos grounds indigenous ways of cultivation as a way towards a sustainable and biodiverse future.
OOO Farms’ Conservation Work IN Numbers:
RICE DIVERSITY
Compared to native seeds (left)—which are thousands of years old and nutritionally dense—conventional high-yield seeds (right) are just 60 years old, nutritionally poor, and non-regenerative.
TOMATO DIVERSITY
BEAN DIVERSITY
CHILLI DIVERSITY
Know Your Desi Ingredients
Valued for its floral aroma, soft texture, and traditional associations with strength and recovery, Stony Ambemohar rice is a traditional variety from the Sahyadri range in Maharashtra.
Deepshika is the Senior TL Copywriter and Web Manager at The Locavore. On weekends, you’ll find her grappling with all the unread paperbacks on her bookshelf.
Mukta Patil is Projects Editor at The Locavore. She works on stories that spotlight the intricacies of our food systems, and how they interact with the climate emergency, the environment, and people.
Learn more about The Locavore’s growing community of food producers here.
This story is part of a collaboration between The Locavore and Hands of Transition, and attempts to illuminate how food producers across India are adapting to a changing climate—through locally rooted knowledge, ecological practices, and collective strength. Know more here.
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