Kalpana Padmakar’s aspirations are clear: a bigger hotel serving her fish-based delicacies—“someday”.

In the narrow lanes of Mumbai’s Khar Danda, Kalpana Padmakar runs Koli Katta, a small kitchen serving Koli-style fish, rice, and chapatis. The kitchen opens at 5 pm, but she begins work much earlier. “I go to Sassoon Dock in the morning to buy fish. Once I’m home, I clean the fish, and complete chores, before coming here at 2 pm,” she says. 

Prior to starting Koli Katta in 2024, Kalpana sold fish—caught by her mother and sister in Gholvad, Palghar—at Sassoon Dock. The income from this work was uncertain, as was her husband Manoj’s work. He continues to work as a daily-wage fisherman on various boats, his income dependent on availability of work. So, Kalpana decided to set up her own kitchen, “It’s fun–better than working for someone else.”

The first location of Koli Katta was forced to shut down in July 2024, within six months of its opening, after the landlord raised rent. When they reopened, recovery wasn’t assured. However, footfall increased after a local food vlogger circulated a video featuring the kitchen on Facebook and YouTube. “Yeh dekhkar grahak aate hain. Yeh video khoob chala.” Today, 50-60 customers visit everyday. 

Kalpana runs the new outlet with Hemangi, Pushpa, and Manisha, all from the neighbourhood. Preparations begin around 2 pm, after they are free from household work. Kitchen responsibilities are divided: “Main roti karti hoon, Hemangi fish fry karti hai, Pushpa aata sambhaalti hai.” The women usually stay at the kitchen late. “We are here till 12:30 am or 1:30 am; it takes time to finish, clean. Then we go home.”

The menu includes popular fish preparations—stuffed bangda and pomfret, and marinated bombil. “Jo menu mein hai, woh banana hi padta hai,” Kalpana says. One of the most ordered items is kolambi, or prawn patties. 

Kalpana pays daily wages to the women and covers a monthly rent of ₹20,000. While the expenses necessitate opening the kitchen every day of the week, there are small wins too—for the first time, she is able to save a portion of her earnings.