One comes across ‘Burma Nagar’ in cities in Tamil Nadu quite frequently. These regions trace their origins to resettlement colonies set up by the then Madras State Government for Tamils repatriated from colonial Burma during the Second World War, or after its political independence as a nation, well into the 1950s and 60s. These diasporic Tamils had picked up Burmese influences in their cooking. Lakshmi and Saroja are from Annai Sivagami Nagar, one of these ‘Burma Nagars’.
Sambal is a condiment quintessential to the land around the Indian Ocean, enjoyed across Burma and South East Asia. It takes on different forms—wet, dry, spicy, mildly sweet, tangy, fresh, preserved—depending on the region and context it is made in. It goes well with absolutely everything—rice, roti, idiyappam, idli, or noodles. Fish, prawns, crab, chicken, even greens and green beans.
In south India, the term ‘sambal’ isn’t commonly used, except in the southernmost parts of the coastline. But, similar condiments go by the names ‘chatni,’ ‘chammandhi,’ ‘thuvaiyal,’ ‘pachadi’ and so on. This recipe is for what Lakshmi and Saroja call ‘sambal’. It bears a close resemblance to the Burmese balachaung, except it uses dried king fish (vanjaram) instead of prawns.
| Turmeric | 1 teaspoon |
|---|---|
| Onions, finely sliced | 750 grams |
| Dried king fish (vanjaram karuvadu) | 4 pieces | 100 grams |
| Dried chillies (Gundu/Boriya) or chilli flakes | 4-6 cups |
| Oil | for deep-frying |
| Garlic, peeled and minced | 250 grams |
| MSG (ajinomoto) | 1 teaspoon |
What You Will Need
Mixing bowls, mixer grinder or a mortar and pestle, large kadhai, strainer, metal container
Instructions
In a clean mixing bowl, combine the turmeric with the finely sliced onions. Do not add salt as it will release moisture from the onions.
In a mixer grinder, pulse the dried fish into a coarse powder. Remove and keep aside. As an alternative, the dried fish can also be pounded in a mortar with a pestle.
In the same mixer grinder, crush the dried chillies into coarse flakes.
Heat enough oil to deep-fry (about 500 ml, in this case) depending on the pan or pot you use, and fry the onions until they are golden-brown. This can be done in batches for consistent frying.
Allow the fried onions to stand in a large strainer to drain the excess oil.
Meanwhile, add the minced garlic into the hot oil and fry until they turn yellow (about 10 minutes). Strain the garlic out and then drain the oil into a metal container.
Put the vessel back on medium heat and add 1 cup of the drained oil back in. Add the coarsely ground dried fish and fry for about 2 minutes. Add the remaining cup of garlic and continue frying for 2 more minutes. Add the crushed chillies and fry for 1-2 minutes.
Finally add the MSG and mix the components in the pan well. Now, add the fried onions and garlic and mix well again. Let it fully cool down to room temperature before bottling it in airtight containers.
Tips:
- While selecting the dried chillies, opt for the fat, round ones (Gundu/ Boriya).
- MSG— or monosodium glutamate—is a naturally occurring compound in many foods including tomatoes, seaweed, and dried fish. It is, in fact, responsible for their popularity, for it lends a deep savoury taste, similar to what salt does to food.
Variations:
The recipe can be replicated with any dried fish, and even peanuts instead of fish.
This recipe was published in ‘Seasoned By The Sea (Neidhal Kaimanam)’ compiled by Bhagath Singh A. and Niranjana R, published by Uyir Publication (2025).
Read an excerpt from the book here.
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