Sunil Bhoye, a farmer and conservationist from Maharashtra, talks to Shailesh Awate of OOO Farms about the demands of foraging, and how traditional knowledge is passed down in the Kokni tribe that he belongs to.
In 2022, The Locavore brought together a team of culinary experts, designers, and researchers to study and archive indigenous forest produce available in the monsoons in Maharashtra’s Palghar district under the Wild Food Project. An integral aspect of the project was to document the traditional knowledge that lies with the members of the forest-dwelling Kokni tribe, for whom forest foods have historically been a source of sustenance.
Sunil Bhoye—a farmer with OOO Farms and seed-saver—was one of the people we relied on to help us learn more about the region’s wild foods. We met him through Shailesh Awate, co-founder of OOO Farms, and one of the guiding forces of the Wild Food Project. Sunil led the visits through the forests in his village during our research trips, giving us context and knowledge on how to identify, gather, and cook the vegetables, along with stories, folklore, and interesting information about each vegetable.
Shailesh and Bhoye—both champions of seed conservation—have been working together for eight years through OOO Farms. Shailesh, “We conserve together. We have been conserving rice, tur dal, and a few millet varieties like ragi on Sunil’s farm.”
Read this interview of Sunil Bhoye by Shailesh, who credits his farmer-friend for all the knowledge that he has gathered about wild food.
Shailesh: Is there any difference between the number of raanbhajya (forest vegetables) available today and in the past?
Bhoye: Ten to 20 years ago, everyone in our village would eat these wild vegetables, so they were definitely less in abundance and hence, scarce to forage. Our people know the importance of these wild foods, but foraging them from the forest and then cooking them is tedious. So, our people have reduced consumption of these raanbhajya. They eat only what they like—maybe once or twice a month. That is why you get the vegetables abundantly now.
During my childhood, there was hardly any cultivation of rice and wheat even though we had land. Therefore, we would fill our stomachs with Udad leaves and Khurasani leaves. We would make seven to ten kilos of sabji from these leaves, and everyone would go eat as and when they were hungry. In the monsoons, we would eat around 50 to 60 raanbhajya—we would first bring Mokha leaves, then Kartuli, Kurdu, Keni, Tandalya, Vagoti, and so on.
Unfortunately, today, the younger generation says they get a lot of stomach ailments, they can’t digest it [the raanbhajya] as easily and their stomach gets upset, so their intake has reduced. Today, only around 10 to 12 people from the village eat these raanbhajya regularly.
Today, only around 10 to 12 people from the village eat these raanbhajya regularly.
Shailesh: What do you do as a family and community for sustenance?
Bhoye: In the early days, when we weren’t farming, we went to work at the local Zilla Parishad teacher’s house. At the end of the day, we would get 50 to 60 rupees with which we would buy ragi, make bhakri, and eat. This was during my parents’ time. I don’t remember much, but they would tell how difficult it was to eat even though we had land. Then the government helped to demarcate farms, and people started growing their own food. Now we don’t have difficulty with food. Many even say, “We can feed people of Mumbai, but we don’t want to go there.”
Shailesh: How much time do you spend in the forests?
Bhoye: When there is no work on the farm, we go out to look for these raanbhajya and medicinal plants. These things take a lot of time. In fact, to collect mahua flowers, we go at 5am and come back at 11am, hence taking time out from our work.
Shailesh: I’ve seen you make ambadi ropes (ropes made from the ambadi plant) and toplis (small baskets). Do you do any more of such things in your free time?
Bhoye: During summers, we soak ambadi for the hard outer layer to come off easily and make ropes from it. We even make toplis, and fishing equipment called sata and bhot from bamboo. We sell these in villages at 50 to 60 rupees each. We also make lanterns from rice straw during Diwali.
To collect mahua flowers, we go at 5am and come back at 11am, hence taking time out from our work.
Shailesh: How is this traditional knowledge about the wild foods passed from one generation to the other?
Bhoye: This knowledge is passed down orally through generations. We do not have knowledge on Ayurveda. According to me, we have had people who would go to the forest and forage for these medicinal plants. They would then extract the juice (rassa), boil it, and use it for various ailments. After trying it several times and experimenting with what is used when, the knowledge has been passed down over generations. For example, if someone had a stomach ache, the rassa of a certain plant is boiled and one teaspoon or so is given every day for a week. If it proved to be beneficial, that knowledge was passed down. I have gained knowledge from my forefathers and now my children see me doing it and learn from it.
Shailesh: How do you feel about the fact that people living in the city are getting interested in wild foods? Does it surprise you?
Bhoye: We did not know whether people from cities ate these vegetables. They must have gotten some benefits from eating them, because it has led to more demand for raanbhajya. The fact that they are coming to villages to buy these ingredients from me and others is happy news. Having enough work and making money, as well as seeing others make money, makes me happy.
Shailesh: How do people in your village feel about the fact that those from the city now buy these wild foods?
Bhoye: Some people feel good because they know the nutritional and medicinal benefits of these vegetables. They know that vagathi and chichordi are good for managing sugar levels, that mokha barks help to deal with stomach ailments. Our people continuously eat these raanbhajya for health benefits, but for people from the city, even if they eat it once or twice, they can realise the benefits. Because of this change, the villagers now feel we also need to continue to eat these raanbhajya.
This interview was originally published in the Wild Food Zine (2022), as part of the Wild Food Project. You can buy the zine here.
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