Found abundantly in the forests of Panna in Madhya Pradesh, the mahua (Madhuca indica) tree holds great importance for several tribal communities in the region. The mahua flower is not only a source of nutrition and income but also has spiritual significance around which many songs, stories, and oral histories are intertwined. One such gathering song for mahua was shared by the women of Panna:
तबक-तबक रे महुआ तोरे आ गये लिबाउआ I
तबक-तबक रे महुआ तोरे आ गये लिबाउआ II
Tabak-Tabak re Mahua Tore aa Gaye libauyaa
Tabak-Tabak re Mahua Tore aa Gaye libauyaa
The song translates to: “Oh Mahua… your gatherer is here.”
Mahua trees are predominantly planted by the tribal community, with each family claiming ownership to a cluster of trees. Over the years, many families have been displaced from their villages, even losing ownership of the trees. Being displaced means they are unable to grow mahua at their relocated sites, thereby destroying a major source of their income and nutrition.
While the forest department doesn’t disallow the tribals to collect mahua directly, communities often have a hard time picking the mahua from the ground as they get mixed in with the dirt and leaves from the trees — making it impossible to clean properly and consume. To ease picking, the dried leaves on the ground are sometimes burnt to clear the ground faster. But this practice also increases the chances of the mahua trees and the forest catching on fire, subsequently destroying tree cover. Hence, burning leaves is often prohibited. This ban makes it more time-consuming and difficult to pick mahua. The dangers of insects, snakes, and other creatures biting the gatherers while collecting mahua also loom large.
Another problem posed to the tribals are the plantations under Compensatory Afforestation Fund Management and Planning Authority (CAMPA). Many Adivasi people are not permitted entry into these areas citing various reasons. The predominant complaint from the community is that Mahua trees are scarcely planted in these sites, there is less to go around. For the tribal communities, the loss of this resource means engaging in more days of migrant labour. Most families eligible for recognition of their rights under the Forest Rights Act have lost their land without proper settlement of their rights to the national park, mining activities, the CAMPA, and climate (mis)actions. Moreover, with every passing year, changing environmental factors impact the flowering of the mahua, which means the tribals are collecting less of it.
| Dried mahua flowers | 2 cups |
|---|---|
| Oil | 1 tablespoon |
| Water | 2 to 3 tablespoons approx. |
What You Will Need
Mortar and pestle, iron tawa
Instructions
Dried mahua must be cleaned before use. According to tribal techniques, the flower needs to be beaten with small wooden sticks to remove the tili (anther/ पराग-कोश), as this part is not consumed.
Pound the clean, dried mahua flowers into a powder using a mortar and pestle. Ensure that this is done in batches to ensure even pounding of all flowers.
Add very little water (at room temperature) towards the end of pounding the mahua.
Knead the mahua into a tight dough, dividing it into 4 equal parts. Roll each part into a ball.
Roll each part into flat, round shapes to make the laatas (shaped like parathas) which are approximately ½-inch thick and approx. 4-5 inches wide.
Toast each of the laatas on a pan with half a tablespoon of oil.
Mahua ka laata is normally consumed during winter and can be preserved for 3-4 days at room temperature.
This recipe has been adapted from Recipes for Change – Recipes for Coexistence, a publication about wild foods from the Adivasi women of Panna undertaken by Dhaatri, an NGO working for the rights of women and children in India and the protection of the ecological resources and women’s knowledge practices. Dhaatri amplifies the voices of women, their struggles, and their demands for gender equality and environmental justice.
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