Divya Chowfin, the co-founder of Himalayan Haat, speaks to Throvnica Chandrasekar about farming within a natural ecosystem, running a business from the mountains, and why their bestselling Malta Cooler is also a family favourite.
Once you grasp the ethos of Himalayan Haat, it’s impossible to not want to taste the fruits and herbs grown on their farms in Uttarakhand’s Pauri Garhwal district. Their produce—citrus fruits, pears, plums, apricots, tomatoes—is grown in an indigenous ecosystem between native trees, and irrigated using spring water. At Himalayan Haat, they call it “jungle farming”.
For Divya Chowfin—co-founder of Himalayan Haat—these farms were not merely an inheritance, but an ode to her parents’ longstanding efforts. Back in the 1960s, her father, Ronnie Chowfin, started farming and cultivating forest plantations on his land. Meanwhile, Divya’s mother, Indira, has played a massive role in shaping the business. Since the 70s, Indira has been making preserves, sauces, and concoctions using flavourful produce from the farms, and it is her recipes that the brand continues to use for their products.
The idea for Himalayan Haat grew from this appreciation for high quality, local produce, along with the realisation that there needs to be a market for it. Today, Himalayan Haat is a social enterprise run by Divya, her husband Stephen Diederichs, and Indira. They not only sell their forest-farmed products, but also support women in the region to become financially independent.
From our conversations with the co-founders, it is evident that they see their ownership of this piece of forest-farm as both a privilege and a responsibility. Caring for the region’s ecology and the communities that inhabit it are central to their vision. We speak with Divya to understand more.
What does the name Himalayan Haat mean? Who came up with it?
“Himalayan Haat” literally means a marketplace for all things from the Himalayas (just like Dilli Haat, the famous handicraft market in Delhi). I came up with the name and designed the first logo. Interestingly, we had hand-knitted items among our early offerings!
What are some of the everyday joys and challenges of the work you do?
I love walking down to the Himalayan Haat community centre, which is on one corner of the farm. It is such a privilege to regularly be able to walk along forest paths, take in the views and the fresh mountain air, and hear birdsong. And raising my kids here—I wouldn’t trade it for anything! It is also very fulfilling to see a real impact in our area, and the sense of community that Himalayan Haat has created.
Running a business from the mountains is very, very hard. Logistics are a nightmare; transporting material is expensive and slow. There is a dearth of educated and skilled workforce due to migration to the cities, which means we have to train everybody from the ground up. In an era of instant gratification, we are a slow business. Produce grows at its own pace at the mercy of the weather. Our products are handmade from local and natural ingredients, and made in small batches.
Running a business from the mountains is very, very hard.
Finally, being a farm-to-table brand means that failed crops, climate change, and poor weather affect us directly and harshly, as opposed to large-scale food businesses that buy from different vendors and farmer groups.
You practise what you refer to as “jungle farming”. Are there any indigenous farming methods that you follow that contribute to the quality and taste of your produce?
A lot of what we do is based on traditional practices, which are often about using resources at hand, such as oak leaves for mulching, forest soil as fertiliser, and branches as stakes instead of wires. The taste of the produce is enhanced due to the rich organic matter and fresh spring water that is used as inputs. Everything is growing in a pristine environment away from dust and pollution, so that definitely translates into taste and flavour.
What are some of the fruits and trees grown on your farm? Are there any that are ideal for a jungle farm, in particular?
All our fruit trees and crops—walnuts, citrus, pears, plum, peppermint, bayleaf—are naturally suited for the climate, terrain, and natural ecosystem of the middle Himalayas. We don’t grow anything in artificial or controlled environments such as polyhouses. We farm amid the natural ecosystem, among indigenous trees such as Buransh (rhododendron), Kaafal (bayberries), Baanj (Himalayan oaks), Paiyan (wild cherry), and Melu (wild pear).
All our fruit trees and crops—walnuts, citrus, pears, plum, peppermint, bayleaf—are naturally suited for the climate, terrain, and natural ecosystem of the middle Himalayas.
An integral aspect of what you do is to support women from the local community to be financially independent. Tell us more about the women you work with, and why this matters to you.
In Garhwal (like in several mountain areas), alcoholism is rampant, and most women are left to provide for their families. They rarely have reliable income opportunities, and usually resort to cattle-rearing and working in fields. There are no jobs in the mountains, which is what has led to mass migration.
Our model of flexible hours is key in being able to employ Pahadi women—they are able to attend to other responsibilities, and have a healthy work-life balance. We’ve created a safe space for local women to work with dignity in a relaxed and beautiful workspace. We have a core team of 15 women, and then an additional team of 7-10 women who join during peak season.
Your forest-farm serves 14 villages with water, which is quite incredible, given how acute water scarcity is in most parts of Uttarakhand. What is the source for this, and how do you manage through the year?
If the monsoon is poor, the springs can reduce or dry up, but this is mitigated with responsible and sustainable forest management. Oak forests and other broad-leafed trees retain water in the ground and release it as spring water. So protecting the forest, preventing overexploitation, and combatting forest fires is how we retain water underground. We’ve been doing it for two generations now.
For us, sustainability is the idea of “stewardship”— that we are stewards, not owners, and have a responsibility to do the best we can for people and the planet.
“Sustainability” is a term that is so commonly used now that it’s hard to comprehend what it means to different people. For us, sustainability is the idea of “stewardship”— that we are stewards, not owners, and have a responsibility to do the best we can for people and the planet. We believe sustainability is not just preventing the depletion of resources, but going the extra mile and improving certain resources and socio-economic conditions for future generations.
Founder favourites: which are some of the products that you love, use routinely, and cannot do without?
This is not a short list, sorry!
We use a bottle of Tomato Basil Sauce every week. It is the most versatile condiment in my pantry and makes life easy and delicious. I use the Chunky Strawberry and Malta Marmalade regularly on the weekends for pancakes and kids’ tiffin boxes. It’s a guilt-free indulgence.
The Malta Cooler is our best-selling product, and loved by our whole family! Wholeleaf Tejpatta Leaves and Apple Cider Vinegar are must-haves for daily use.
The Lemon Ginger Cooler makes the most delicious cocktails, while the Lemongrass Ginger Turmeric Infusion is what we use when we feel a cold coming on.
Final flavour bombs: all our Seasoning Salts are great to spice up any meal.
The women at work at Himalayan Haat
Apart from interviewing the co-founder, we had a chance to speak to the women workers at Himalayan Haat. We spoke to Babita, Nirmala, Poonam, and Deepa, who take care of all operational needs—from harvesting and managing inventory to label-making and the cooking of the jams.
Our attempt was to understand their joys, challenges, routines, and what keeps them motivated at work. Although our conversations were had from behind screens, there was plenty of banter, and we couldn’t help but notice the ease and camaraderie between the women, including the co-founders.
The team mentioned that while they each bring lunch from home, they are usually shared. Every few months, the founders organise a staff lunch cooked on a wood-fire stove, followed by chai and dancing. “That day is the best for us!” says Nirmala.
Meet the team
Throvnica Chandrasekar is a writer and editor based in Chennai, exploring stories around indigeneity and environmental inequality. She was previously a storytelling intern at The Locavore.
To read more about Himalayan Haat and their practices and efforts, check out our producer page here. This is a paid partnership with Himalayan Haat. We strive to keep the practices of a producer transparent and honest across all forms of partnerships.
