The Locavore Guide to Eating Out in Kochi – Biennale Edition
👉 This guide is also available as a Google Maps ‘TL Guide to Eating Out in Kochi’ list, with all the places saved so you can navigate Kochi easily as you go.
Kochi has always felt like a city where the past and present sit at the same table.
I grew up in Kerala until the early 2000s, and every time I return, I’m reminded that food here isn’t just about flavour. It carries memory and migration—of Arab, Jewish, Syrian Christian, tribal and coastal Hindu kitchens; of spice traders, ferry crossings, toddy shops, and homes built along canals and backwaters. It lives in rice meals shaped by the tide, seafood dictated by the morning catch, and recipes that have travelled quietly through families. Not reinvented, just repeated and trusted.
During the Kochi-Muziris Biennale—the sixth edition of which is on until 31 March 2026—the city draws artists, thinkers, and wanderers alike. Old godowns, colonial warehouses, and port structures are briefly reinhabited as public spaces. In this moment of return and reimagining, food becomes one of the most honest ways to understand Kochi, not as spectacle, but as a living, working city shaped by trade, movement, and everyday nourishment.
This guide is an invitation to taste the city the way locals do—slowly, curiously, and with appetite. Whether you’re here for a week or just passing through, it’s meant to help you eat beyond the obvious, with the enthusiasm and generosity Kochi brings to the table every day.
This isn’t a list of “best restaurants” or trending spots. The places that follow are ones locals return to, for daily lunches, celebratory meals, late-night snacks, or long conversations that unfold over food. Some are old and unchanged; others are newer, but shaped by the same shared expectations.
Food in Kochi is rarely treated as just personal expression. It’s communal, opinionated, and openly discussed, across homes, ferries, toddy shops, and neighbourhoods. Dishes are expected to hold memory, withstand repetition, and meet standards people feel confident judging. What connects these places is not polish, but a collective understanding of how food should taste, when it should be eaten, and what it’s meant to do at the table.
Use it as a companion, not a checklist. Follow your appetite. Ask questions. Trust the day’s catch. Let Kochi reveal itself, one meal at a time.
With thanks to Aditi Zacharias, Sebastian Zacharias, and Lydia Thomas for their inputs and suggestions.
– Chef Thomas Zacharias, Founder of The Locavore
👉 This guide is also available as a Google Maps ‘TL Guide to Eating Out in Kochi’ list, with all the places saved so you can navigate Kochi easily as you go.
Our Favourite Recommendations
I. Local Kochi and Kerala Cuisine
Traditional, regional, homestyle fare—from seafood and toddy-style cooking to Malabar and Central Kerala specialties—is where Kochi reveals itself most clearly. Expect tide-driven seafood, rice-based meals, coconut-rich gravies, and cooking that values freshness over flourish.
A. Seafood and Traditional Kochi Meals
Fort Kochi and Mattanchery
Fusion Bay (Fort Kochi) MUST VISIT
A reliable introduction to Syrian Christian cooking. Order meen pollichathu, prawn coconut roast, duck roast, or appam with stew. Honest flavours, generous portions, and a steady local following.
O Porto Bar (Fort Kochi)
A calm, heritage bar with a shaded verandah—ideal between Biennale visits. Expect well-executed coastal plates like squid fry and grilled local fish. Best for a beer, light food, and conversation.
Seagull (Fort Kochi)
An iconic waterfront address best experienced at sunset. Come for harbour views, sea breeze, and a cold beer. Stick to simple seafood—grilled pomfret, fried prawns, squid—and enjoy it for what it is.
Hotel City Star—popularly known as “Balan Chettan’s” (Mattancherry)
A Mattancherry institution since the 1990s, it sticks firmly to Kerala staples—porotta, idiappam, vellayappam, puttu—paired with hearty curries. Best known for slow-roasted mutton and beef chops that have earned cult loyalty across generations.
History & Terrace Grill (Fort Kochi)
Set within the colonial-era Brunton Boatyard, this calm waterfront restaurant focuses on seafood-led cooking—grilled and pan-fried fish, pepper-forward preparations, coconut-rich gravies, and restrained spicing. Alcohol available.
Kerala Lunch Home (Thoppumpady)
A local favourite for simple, satisfying Kerala meals and fresh seafood preparations, served with the easy, unpretentious energy of a neighbourhood lunch spot. Great for a midday break after exploring the fishing harbour and bridges of Thoppumpady.
Kara (Fort Kochi)
A restored heritage property near the St. Francis Church in Fort Kochi with an on-site art gallery. Walk-ins are welcome to explore the space, and made-to-order meals are available whether or not you’re staying at the hotel.
Central Kochi
Grand Hotel (Grand Pavilion, MG Road, Kochi) MUST VISIT
A Kochi classic for fish curry meals and textbook karimeen pollichathu—banana-leaf wrapped, gently grilled, and perfectly spiced fish. Old-school, spacious, and consistently reliable. Lunch only.
Hotel Sona (MG Road, Kochi)
A deeply local evening ritual. After 7 pm, Hotel Sona becomes the destination for one dish only: fried rice neypathal paired with creamy beef stew. Gently spiced, rich in coconut milk, and quietly comforting. Go at night, eat, have tea, leave satisfied.
Backwaters, Suburbs , and Edges
Vella Kanthari (Mulavukad Island) MUST VISIT
Vella Kanthari is defined by its extraordinary daily catch. Expect an ever-changing menu of fish and shellfish—from fish roe and crab thoran to karimeen pollichathu—cooked in robust, masala-heavy gravies.
Akkara & Co (Thevara)
A backwater-style restaurant bringing Kuttanad flavours into the city. Expect fresh seafood, duck mappas, fish curry with mashed tapioca, borma bread (a house specialty), and appam with stew.
Kaasa Kitchen (Kakkanad)
Small, intimate, and consistently excellent. Known for gentle, home-style Kerala cooking—especially seafood. Fish curry meals, meen peera, and Kerala-style fish fry define the experience.
Nellikka Restaurant (Kakkanad)
A rare and deeply comforting address devoted almost entirely to kanji—Kerala’s traditional rice porridge—served all day. Choose from plain kanji, payar, jeerakam, pazhankanji, or the Nellikka special with curd and mashed tapioca.
Karthiyayini (Nedumbassery or Maradu) MUST VISIT
A lunch-only, homestyle seafood restaurant near the Kochi international airport serving wholesome Kerala fish meals. Seafood and vegetable sides only—no chicken or mutton—with unlimited brown rice. Look for mullet curry, prawns fry, squid kanthari, and excellent fish fry. Arrive early.
Varambu (Kumbalangi) MUST VISIT
Literally referring to the raised embankments at the edge of the village, Varambu is a calm, backwater-side restaurant known for super-fresh local seafood cooked simply and well. If you’re a fan of Kumbalangi Nights, this is the kind of place that echoes its mood—quiet village evenings, water at the edge, and food that feels rooted rather than performative. Reaching Varambu is part of the experience: the final stretch involves a short boat ride! It typically opens around 5 pm. Call ahead to check if they’re open and to pre-book, especially for crab or larger seafood orders.
B. Toddy Shop–style Food
Best experienced at lunch. Go early (12–2 pm).
Nettoor Toddy Shop (Nettoor) MUST VISIT
Set beside the backwaters, Nettoor is one of the most consistent toddy-style kitchens in the region, and is known for its fiery masalas, excellent seafood, and fast service. Look for crab roast, fish head curry, squid and prawn fry, and fresh fish preparations. While toddy may no longer be served, the food remains outstanding—clean, family-friendly, and deeply satisfying.
Mullapanthal Toddy Shop (Udayamperoor)
Often regarded as Kochi’s most iconic toddy shop, it delivers scale, abundance, and bold flavours, though it can get overwhelmingly crowded. Quality varies with timing and catch, but when it’s good, it’s exceptional. Expect duck roast, beef fry, crab, squid, prawns—food that is meant for sharing. Go early, order selectively, and treat it as a high-energy experience.
C. Malabar and Central Kerala Food
Paragon (Lulu Mall, Kochi) MUST VISIT
A benchmark for Malabar cooking since 1939. Known for aromatic biryanis, seafood curries, and Moplah dishes that have remained largely unchanged. The prawn and raw mango curry is a standout.
Salkara Express (MG Road or Edappally or Kakkanad)
Excellent value for everyday Kerala meals. Best known for erachi choru, fish curry meals, and hearty non-vegetarian staples. Fast, affordable, and unfussy.
Taal/Thaal Kitchen (MG Road or Edappally)
A dependable choice for everyday Kerala fare across Kochi. Expect rice-and-curry meals, snacks, and breakfast items.
Palaaram (MG Road or Edappally or Kakkanad)
Homestyle Kerala food with slightly polished presentation. Known for consistent meals, traditional snacks, and bakery items. Useful when you want comfort food in a more accessible setting.
Sree Muruga Café (Thrippunithura)
Pazhampori and beef is a legendary pairing that sounds strange until you try it. Sweet, crisp banana fritters alongside spicy beef curry, Sree Muruga Café has served this combination for decades. Order only this, add tea, and don’t overthink it. Best between 4 pm–7 pm.
D. Breakfast and Late-Night Eating
Gokul Ootupura (MG Road or Panampilly Nagar or Edappally)
A reliable, no-nonsense address for traditional Kerala breakfasts and meals. Best in the mornings for idiyappam with stew, appam, puttu, dosa, and simple curries. Clean, efficient, and quietly local.
Shibu’s Puttu Kada (Kumbalam) MUST VISIT
A true neighbourhood institution and one of Kochi’s most authentic late-night food experiences. From around 9 pm onwards, expect steaming-hot puttu with fiercely spiced beef, mutton, prawn, or fish curry (availability varies). Little seating, no décor—just texture and flavour.
Brindavan Veg Restaurant (Palarivattom)
A popular, casual vegetarian spot along the Edappally Bypass, known for straightforward South Indian fare like puttu, dosa, appam, idiyappam, and other familiar classics. End the meal with a cup of chukku kaapi.
E. Biryani
Kayees Rahmathulla Café (Mattancherry) MUST VISIT
Founded in 1948, Kayees represents Kochi’s signature biryani style—lightly spiced, fragrant, and restrained. Mutton is the star, served with short-grain rice, date pickle, and onion raita. Seating is shared; they often sell out early.
Jeff Biryani (Edappally or Vyttila or Kakkanad)
A newer favourite with a bolder spice profile and generous portions. Mutton and Afghani chicken biryanis lean more aromatic and robust than traditional Kochi styles. The charred chicken leg served alongside has become a signature.
Paragon (Lulu Mall, Kochi)
Worth repeating. Paragon’s biryani is consistently excellent—balanced, aromatic, and never overworked. When in doubt, this is the no-drama choice.
II. Markets and Ingredients for Food Lovers
Markets reveal Kochi’s food culture in its most honest form—what’s cooked daily, what’s seasonal, and what disappears when the catch or crop changes. Go early, observe respectfully, and follow the rhythms. Even if you don’t buy anything, you’ll leave understanding the city better.
Ernakulam
Broadway Market (Broadway, Ernakulam)
The backbone of everyday cooking in Kochi. Spices, coconut oil, jaggery, dried seafood, rice, lentils, snacks are found aplenty—chaotic, essential, and deeply alive. This is where small restaurants and home kitchens source from. Walk slowly, explore side lanes, and look beyond the most obvious storefronts.
Kaloor Market (Kaloor, Ernakulam)
Less picturesque, more revealing. This is where caterers and neighbourhood cooks buy vegetables, greens, and meat. If Broadway shows you Kochi’s spice cabinet, Kaloor shows you its produce—fresh, functional, and central to everyday cooking.
Mattancherry Spice Streets (Jew Town, Mattancherry)
These streets are abound with the aromas of black pepper, kudampuli (Malabar tamarind), cinnamon, cloves, vanilla, and dry ginger. Skip the loudest shops and trust your nose. The quieter godowns are where locals still buy. Many shops will vacuum-pack spices upon request.
Coastal and Backwater Fish Markets
Fish Markets (Fort Kochi or Thoppumpady or Vypeen)
Early morning only (about 6:30 am–8 am). Pearl spot, sardines, anchovies, prawns, clams, and crabs—dictated entirely by tide and season. Watch the auctions, step carefully, photograph only with permission. Even without buying, you’ll understand why menus here change daily.
Snacks to Take Back Home
Varavukada (Shenoys Chittoor Road or Ponnurunni or Kadavanthra) MUST VISIT
Buy freshly fried nendran banana chips, tapioca chips, or sharkara varatti. Best eaten fresh, but worth carrying back to gift friends—a simple, honest souvenir of Kochi’s snack culture.
III. Pauses, Comforts, and In-Betweens
Cafés, bakeries, global food, and familiar comforts.
These aren’t why you come to Kochi—but during long Biennale days, they offer reliable pauses. Think of this section as places to rest, recalibrate, or eat without thinking too hard.
A. Cafes and Morning Spots
Fort Kochi
Kashi Art Café (Burger Street, Fort Kochi)
A Biennale staple for good reason. Set within an art gallery, with a leafy courtyard that invites lingering. Come for strong coffee, filling breakfasts, homemade cakes, and a calm start to the day.
Loving Earth Café (Fort Kochi)
A thoughtfully run vegan café with genuinely satisfying food. Bowls, smoothies, vegan thalis, and plant-forward comfort dishes in a relaxed, yoga-adjacent space. Even non-vegans will find plenty to like.
Lila – Curated Experiences (Fort Kochi)
A heritage café-restaurant housed in a restored colonial building. Expect a curated menu that blends Kerala and global flavours, pastries, brunch options, and an artful ambience. Visitors praise the ambience and service, though experiences vary.
Central Kochi & Beyond
Cafficcana (Panampilly Nagar)
Coffee-first and quietly confident. Bold roasts, careful brewing, and consistency over trends. A small, well-edited menu works well for breakfast or a light meal.
French Toast (Kacheripady or Panampilly Nagar or Fort Kochi)
Dependable brunch and bakery fare—pancakes, eggs, pastries, cakes—done consistently well. Bright, welcoming, and useful when you want familiar comfort that delivers.
Michael’s Tea Shop (Thevara)
Less café, more conversation room. Perfectly brewed tea, simple snacks, and a pace that encourages slowing down.
Zera Noya (Kacheripady)
A European-style bakery and café in central Kochi, known for breads, pastries, cakes, and coffee.
B. Bakeries, Sweets, and Desserts
Shantilal S. Mithaiwala (Mattancherry)
A Gujarati sweet shop that feels frozen in time—in the best possible way. Kaju katli, laddoos, jalebi, savouries are all made fresh daily and are deeply satisfying.
Chamanlal H. Mithaiwala (Mattancherry)
Another Mattancherry institution for North Indian and Gujarati mithai. Consistent, restrained, and focused on everyday classics rather than novelty.
Sri Krishna Café (Mattancherry)
Order the basundi—thick, slow-reduced, quietly exceptional. Everything else is optional.
Pandhal Cake Shop (Panampilly Nagar or Edappally)
Refined desserts and celebration cakes with polish and consistency. Their spice plum cake has become a seasonal favourite—worth the splurge.
Rakkaudella (Panampilly Nagar)
Kochi’s strongest address for chocolate desserts. Bean-to-bar, single-origin cocoa, deeply indulgent brownies and cakes. Come here when you want chocolate done seriously well.
Kunju’s JamRolls (Panampilly Nagar)
Kunju’s JamRolls, which originated in Kanjirappally, are a Kerala bakery classic best known for their pineapple jam filling. Soft sponge, restrained sweetness, and a distinct fruitiness have made them the reference point for pineapple jam rolls across the state.
Everyday Bakeries and Snacks
Cake Hut (Multiple locations across Kochi)
Come for the ghee cake—soft, fresh, fragrant, nostalgic.
Cocoacraft Chocolate Factory (Near High Court)
Try the hot chocolate shots in varying cocoa percentages and the chocolate-dipped plum cake bites.
Ann’s Bakery (Multiple locations across Kochi)
Old-school bakery staples—cream buns, puffs, plum cake—comfort food that hasn’t changed much in decades.
Navya (Multiple locations across Kochi)
Excellent Kerala snacks and savouries—banana chips, sharkara varatti, spicy mixture—ideal for gifts or train snacks.
C. When you want a break from Kerala Food
Little Soi (Panampilly Nagar)
Consistently good Pan Asian food—curries, stir-fries, noodles.
Tony’s (Kacheripady—next to French Toast)
A newer Japanese restaurant with a focused, comfort-forward menu. Still settling into its identity, but promising if you want something non-pan-Asian.
Foodie Mukbang (Kadavanthara)
Korean comfort food done simply—ramyeon, fried chicken, kimbap, bibimbap. Fast, hot, and satisfying without any fuss.
D. Burgers, Pizzas, and Quick Comforts
The Burger Junction (Panampilly Nagar)
Kochi’s original burger destination. Big, juicy, unapologetically indulgent burgers that still draw queues. Open late and consistently good.
Hearth Kitchen (Thrippunithura)
Arguably Kochi’s best pizza for dough lovers. Naturally fermented sourdough, balanced toppings, and serious attention to technique.
Grana Pizzeria (Panampilly Nagar)
Well-fermented dough and restrained toppings. A strong addition to Kochi’s pizza scene.
Pandhal Cafe at David Hall (Fort Kochi)
Go for the ambience during Biennale season—historic setting, open garden, relaxed evenings. The pizza is decent; the atmosphere is the real draw.
BeyondBurg Inc. (Palarivattom)
Bold flavours, generous portions, and inventive combinations. Loud burgers for hungry people.
French Toast (Kacheripady)
Wood-fired sourdough (70%) pizzas are a new addition to the café’s broader menu
E. Arabic / Gulf-inspired Eating
Al Raeem (Edappally) MUST VISIT
Often credited as Kochi’s first manthi restaurant. Specialises in Yemeni-style manthi—fragrant rice served with slow-roasted chicken or mutton, lightly spiced and built for generous, shared eating.
Zaatar (Edappally)
Manthi, grills, and Middle Eastern plates designed for sharing. Comforting, generous, and reliable.
Al Taza (Edappally)
A local shawarma favourite. Juicy, quick, and best eaten immediately.
Mehrub Mandi (Edappally)
Straightforward, filling manthi, plus Gulf-style rice dishes at accessible prices.
F. Meats and Grills
Erracci (Maradu) MUST VISIT
A contemporary, meat-forward restaurant sitting between a smokehouse and a Malayali kitchen. Known for ribs, brisket, pulled beef, and BBQ-style meats layered with Kerala spice sensibilities. Modern in setting, yet grounded in flavour.
Titu’s Taqueria (Edapally)
Old-school steakhouse energy. Generous portions, familiar flavours, and a loyal following. Comfort over finesse.
Smoke Culture by Steve (Edapally)
A meat-forward grill and barbecue spot with a focus on brioche buns, smoked meats, and bold flavours. Expect burgers, sandwiches, and plates built around slow-cooked or grilled proteins rather than traditional Kerala far
G. Snacks and Street Specials
Sree Muruga Café (Thrippunithura)
Worth revisiting for fritters, tea, and classic snack culture beyond the popular pazhampori–beef pairing.
Rinoos Cool Bar (Mattancherry)
Order the avocado shake—that’s it.
H. Bars and Pubs
Francis (Fort Kochi)
A historic pub in a former Portuguese trading post, known for beers, cocktails, and occasional live music in a cosy colonial setting.
Hortus (Panampilly Nagar)
Design-forward and relaxed. Best treated as a place for drinks and conversation rather than a food destination.
Watson’s (MG Road)
Familiar, predictable, and useful when you don’t want to think too hard about where to meet.
Millennials Restobar (Kaloor)
Popular with a younger crowd. Known more for its beers, cocktails, and social vibe than for food.
Velocity (Marine Drive)
Lively, youthful, and social. A dependable option for drinks and a louder night out, especially on weekends.
👉 This guide is also available as a Google Maps ‘TL Guide to Eating Out in Kochi’ list, with all the places saved so you can navigate Kochi easily as you go.
Suggested Eating Routes for Kochi Biennale Visitors
Designed to move with the city—art first, food as rhythm, not interruption.
Think of these as loose frameworks, not itineraries. Two good meals a day is enough. Walk between them. Sit when the heat asks you to. Let Kochi decide the rest.
Day 1 — Fort Kochi and Mattancherry
Art-heavy, walkable, historic. Eat slowly, linger often.
Morning
Start at your own pace before the crowds arrive. Kashi Art Café—eggs, coffee, cakes, and courtyard calm. Spend the morning at Aspinwall House, David Hall, Pepper House, and nearby galleries. Walk more than you plan.
Lunch (choose one, depending on mood)
Fusion Bay—seafood-forward and celebratory. Order meen pollichathu or prawn coconut roast with appams.
O Porto—slower, coastal plates. Grilled local fish, squid fry, maybe a beer if the day calls for one.
Afternoon pause
Cross over to Mattancherry on foot or by ferry. Sri Krishna Café—order only the basundi. Nothing else. Wander around Jew Town and the spice streets without trying to see everything.
Evening
Seagull at sunset—a cold beer, simple seafood, harbour light. Come for the view more than the food. If you’re hungry later (and only if you are), Kayees Rahmathulla Café—early biryani if they still have stock. Eat lightly, then walk.
Day 2 — Central Kochi
MG Road, Panampilly, Thevara. Everyday Kochi—offices, homes, quiet confidence.
Morning
French Toast—pancakes, eggs, or pastries. Familiar and grounding.
Lunch (choose one)
Grand Hotel—fish curry meal with karimeen pollichathu. Timeless.
Karthiyayini—fish curry meal, fried fish, unlimited rice. Go early.
Afternoon (optional but worthwhile)
A non-food detour that brings context. Kerala Museum—not part of the Biennale circuit, but deeply grounding. Its exhibitions and programming offer a layered understanding of Kerala’s history, social movements, literature, and everyday life—context that quietly deepens how you experience Kochi, on and off the plate.
During the Biennale period, the museum hosts an archival exhibition of Bombay-based poet Adil Jussawalla’s work (7 December 2025–15 March 2026), alongside talks and public programmes. Check their updates on Instagram (@keralamuseum) if you’re curious.
Evening
Drinks somewhere easy—Watson’s or Hortus, depending on where you end up.
Dinner, if needed:
Erracci—beef ribs, smoked meats, or restrained seafood. A modern counterpoint to the day’s traditional meals.
Day 3 — Backwaters & and Toddy-style lunch
Midday eating, big flavours. The rest of the day is for doing very little.
Morning:
head towards Nettoor / Udayamperoor by ferry or car.
Lunch (choose ONE, arrive on an empty stomach)
Nettoor Toddy Shop—crab roast, fish head curry, prawns, tapioca dishes. Bold, fast, and deeply satisfying.
After Lunch
Do nothing. Tea, a walk by the water, maybe a nap. This isn’t a day to plan more.
Evening Snack
Sree Muruga Café—pazhampori + beef, some tea.
Dinner is optional
Toddy-style lunches are the main event.
Day 4 — Kochi’s Edges
Kakkanad, Thrippunithura, residential neighbourhoods, and food-first detours.
Morning
Ootupura—traditional vegetarian Kerala breakfast. Dosas, vadas, and simple accompaniments.
Lunch
Nellikka Restaurant—kanji with all the sides. Slow, grounding, restorative.
Afternoon
A small indulgence.
Rakkaudella—one brownie or hot chocolate is enough.
Evening
Keep it simple:
Hearth Kitchen—sourdough pizza (Margherita or Diavola).
Al Taza—quick shawarma if you’re on the move.
Day 5 — Open Day
For repeats, favourites, or cravings. Ideas, not instructions:
Morning at Broadway Market, followed by snacking on banana chips from a local varavu kada
Chocolate run to Rakkaudella
Late-night Shibu’s Puttu Kada (post 9 pm)
Burger fix at The Burger Junction
This guide is intentionally incomplete. Kochi’s food culture cannot be fully captured within a guide—it’s something you return to, meal by meal, visit by visit. Eat slowly. Ask questions. Order what’s fresh. Support small kitchens. Walk between meals.
And above all, let Kochi set the pace.
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