Bhavesh Koli shares his family’s recipe for the signature Koli masala—a spice blend of 28 ingredients, including red chillies, coriander seeds, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, and black pepper. It’s what gives most Koli dishes their deep, rich colour and layered flavour.
There isn’t, however, a single recipe for Koli masala—it differs from household to household. Bhavesh says that in his own home alone, there are four different kinds of Koli masalas made. The common thread lies in the ingredients—red chillies, turmeric, black pepper, and cinnamon, to name a few—but their proportions vary. Even the number of chillies used differ: some families use three, while others use four. Koli masala cannot be made in small batches, so families who prefer the same flavour often come together to prepare large quantities. To extend its shelf life, an entire cube of asafoetida is added to the masala—it acts as a natural preservative. It’s best made ahead of time and stored, ready to be used as and when required.
| Bedgi chillies | 80 grams |
|---|---|
| Patna or Sakeshwar chillies | 60 grams |
| Ghati chillies (or any spicy red chilli) | 80 grams |
| Kashmiri chillies | 100 grams |
| Whole Spices: | |
| Coriander seeds | 4 tablespoons |
| Cumin seeds | 2 tablespoons |
| Fennel seeds | 1 tablespoon |
| Mustard seeds | 1 tablespoon |
| Poppy seeds | 2 teaspoons |
| Black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| Cloves | 6 to 8 pieces |
| Cinnamon | 2 small sticks |
| Caraway seeds (Shahi jeera) | 1 teaspoon |
| Black cardamom | 1 piece |
| Green cardamom | 3 pieces |
| Star anise | ½ piece |
| Nagkeshar | 3 to 4 pieces |
| Triphala | ½ teaspoon |
| Stone flower (Dagad phool) | 1 teaspoon |
| Bay leaf | 2 leaves |
| Cassia leaf (Ram patra) | 1 leaf |
| Mace (Javitri) | 1 small blade |
| Nutmeg (Jaiphal), grated | ⅛ piece |
| Allspice (Kabab chini) | ½ teaspoon |
| To Add After Grinding: | |
| Turmeric powder | 1½ teaspoons |
| Asafoetida | 1 teaspoon or 1 small chunk |
What You Will Need
Spice-grinder, jar to store
Instructions
Remove the stems from all the dried red chillies. Spread them out on a plate and sun-dry for 1 to 2 hours until crisp.If sun-drying isn’t possible, warm them on a tawa over a very low flame for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring continuously. They should turn dry and brittle but not darken. Set aside to cool completely.
Place a clean, dry tawa on low heat. Add each spice one at a time and roast gently until it becomes fragrant. Do not let the spices change colour or smoke—the roasting should be slow and light. Transfer each spice to a large plate and allow everything to cool completely before grinding.
(Cooling prevents moisture from forming in the masala and helps it store well.)
First, grind all the dried chillies into a fine powder. Then add the roasted whole spices and grind again until well blended. Finally, add turmeric powder and asafoetida and pulse briefly to mix.
Transfer the masala to an airtight jar and store in a cool, dry place. It keeps well for 3 to 4 months and can be used as needed.
Bhavesh Koli, a civil engineer by education with over a decade of experience in advertising, founded Mi Hi Koli—a restaurant in Mumbai dedicated to authentic Koli cuisine in 2011.
Bhavesh is a volunteer with The Mumbai Koli Project by The Locavore. An impact campaign inspired by the film Against the Tide, the project aims to spotlight the city’s original fisherfolk—the Koli community—and their evolving relationship with the sea, while encouraging Mumbaikars to make more sustainable, seasonal, and inclusive seafood choices. Read more about the project here.
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