This recipe has been excerpted from ‘Stories from a Kargili Kitchen’ (2026) written by Yash Saxena, in collaboration with Sneha Nair and Muzammil Hussain. Blending memoir, travelogue, and cultural history, the book is part love letter and part act of remembrance—a tender, sensory journey through Kargili kitchens, whose flames fight to keep centuries of wisdom alive against the winds of change.
Tucked between some of the most forbidding folds of the Himalayas, Kargil is a land too often seen only through the lens of war—yet its valleys hold a tenderness, resilience, and faith that endure through food.
Born from years of travel, cooking, and friendships, foodways researcher Yash Saxena gathers voices from mountain kitchens and firesides—of shepherds, monks, farmers, and mothers who feed a world shaped by both faith and frost. From slow-simmering broths to shifting borderlines, from ancient Bon rituals to the echoes of Bofor gunfire, each story reveals how a community sustains itself through ritual, memory, and the quiet grace of everyday cooking.

This recipe is a cross between traditional harissa-making methods and high-altitude Himalayan knowledge of cooking yak meat.
Kashmiri harissa likely traces its origins to Persian and Central Asian influences. The term ‘harissa’ itself comes from the Arabic verb ‘harasa’, meaning ‘to mash’ or ‘to squash’, since grains are broken and pounded before being cooked to create a porridge-like consistency.
Harissa and its variants are found throughout the Levant and the Arab states of the Persian Gulf region. With many recipes and names such as ‘keşkek’ in Turkey, Tajikistan, and Azerbaijan, ‘harees’ in Arabic Gulf countries, ‘haleem’ and ‘khichra’ in India, and ‘boko boko’ in Zanzibar, this dish has permeated almost all Islamic Asian and African cultures. It even has the honour of being Armenia’s national dish.
Harissa is regarded as both a delicacy and a calorie-dense food, traditionally prepared on special occasions. In Lebanon, it is cooked communally during religious observances like Ashura. Across the Arab world and South Asia, it is often served during Ramadan, festivals such as Eid ul-Fitr, and at weddings. In Armenia, it is a ceremonial Easter dish. In Kashmir, it is an important part of Ramadan as well as cold winter mornings as a savoury breakfast delicacy.
Yaks, the woolly mammoth-like cousins of cows, have adapted to life in high altitudes, low temperatures, and strong winds. These adaptations also provide special characteristics to the products derived from the animal. Compared to beef, yak meat contains less than half the calories, nearly three times less fat, and significantly more protein. It is also packed with more minerals and vitamins than other red meat. While fat usually contributes to the juiciness of red meat, yak meat, being up to 95 percent lean, draws its succulence from a high concentration of omega-3 fatty acids, making it both healthy and flavourful.
Ingredients:
| Yak/ buff/ beef | 1 kilogram |
|---|---|
| Onions, sliced | 500 grams |
| Garlic cloves | 4 |
| Black peppercorns | 8 |
| Cloves | 4 |
| Cinnamon sticks | 2 |
| Black cardamom pods | 2 |
| Green cardamom pods | 8 |
| Fennel seeds | ¼ cup |
| Water | 1 ½ liters |
| Cooked rice | 1 cup |
| Cooked whole wheat | ½ cup |
| Turmeric powder | ¾ teaspoon |
| Thanyir (yellow chilli powder from Manali) | 1 ½ teaspoon |
| Salt | to taste |
| Mustard oil | 1 cup |
| Onion, sliced (for garnish) | 1, large |
What You Will Need
Big heavy-bottomed vessel/ pressure cooker, wooden spoon/masher, strainer, medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, medium frying-pan
Instructions
In a degchi (big, heavy-bottomed vessel), add the meat, sliced onions, and whole spices along with the water. Cover and cook for approximately 2.5 hours on low flame. Alternatively, use a pressure cooker and cook for 7–8 whistles on medium flame.
Turn off the heat and let it sit for 10 minutes with the cover or until the pressure is released from the pressure cooker.
Open the lid and roughly mash all the ingredients with a zarbu (big wooden spoon).
The meat should have separated from the bones by now. Remove the bones at this stage and keep them aside for now. (Cook the meat covered for some more time if it is still attached to the bones.)
Filter the remaining stock and remove any of the visible spices like cardamom pods and cinnamon sticks. You must be left with at least 2–3 cups of yak meat stock at this point. Empty it in another container.
Take a cup of stock and add the cooked rice and wheat to it. Cook the rice in the stock on medium flame, stirring constantly until it forms a smooth paste. If you’re using a cooker, consider transferring the contents in a more open-mouthed utensil for the following steps since it requires a lot of movement.
Add the turmeric and thanyir powder. Cook for 10 minutes on low flame until fully incorporated. Add the remaining stock slowly to this mix while stirring so nothing sticks to the vessel.
Add salt and cook all the contents whilst stirring regularly for about 1–1.5 hours or till you get the required porridge-like consistency. This is an important step since the smoothness of the harissa depends on this. Make sure to put in the manual labour required for this step!
Meanwhile, heat mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan and fry one large, sliced onion on the side until it starts to become golden brown.
Check the mixture for salt. Add more, if required. In case it is too salty, add small quantities of milk till it is neutralised while stirring.
Once the oil starts leaving the sides of the cooker, the harissa is cooked and ready. Garnish with caramelised onions and serve hot.
Typically, harissa is eaten as a breakfast dish tempered with ghee and fried onions on top. Serve the dish with Kashmiri girda bread and mar (home-made butter) on the side.
Tips:
In case the harissa has too much salt, add milk in small quantities to neutralise the flavour.
Yash Saxena is a storyteller and mountaineer whose work blends storytelling, art, and philosophy to understand how people find meaning in what they eat and create. ‘Stories from a Kargili Kitchen’ is the result of three years in Kargil, where they lived, listened, and cooked alongside its people, tracing the region’s foodways and the quiet beauty of its people.
This is an excerpt from ‘Stories from a Kargili Kitchen’ (2026) by Yash Saxena, published by Penguin Random House India. Excerpted with permission from the author and publisher.
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