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October 23, 2024
  • Producers

Hill Wild: Advocating for Indigenous Produce from the North-East

  • October 23, 2024
  • The Locavore Team
At the Shingcha village in Manipur, Mene, Ruchi, and Zeinorin (from left to right) buy fresh local produce. All photos by Hill Wild.

Founded in 2017 by Zeinorin Angkang and Leiyolan Vashum, Hill Wild exclusively sources indigenous produce from villages in Manipur and Nagaland, with the aim to spotlight local food traditions and, in turn, advocate for a more sustainable food system rooted in these traditions. Currently, their products feature spices and condiments, including a wood-smoked Sirarakhong Chilli Powder and a flavourful Naga Chilli Crisp, which is made using spices like Talui garlic, Heiman or wild sumac, and the GI-tagged Sirarakhong chilli, native to Manipur.

 

Growing up in Manipur’s Ukhrul district, Zeinorin credits her mother, Areiwon Angkang, who instilled a love for indigenous produce in her from a young age, as the inspiration behind Hill Wild. The idea took shape in 2016 when Zeinorin was working in the apparel export industry in New Delhi, where she quickly realised how much she missed the distinct, delicious flavours from back home. Subsequently, she established Hill Wild with the intention of working closely with Naga farmers, preserving their ancestral knowledge, and recognising their heritage.

 

Hill Wild’s journey began with artisanal chocolate bars infused with local ingredients like candied plums, pumpkin seeds, and Naga King Chilli. In 2023, owing to the conflict in Manipur, Zeinorin had to put a pause on production, resurfacing only recently with two new products. She used this time to work with the Food & Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations in Rome, advocating for Indigenous People’s food systems.

 

Today, Hill Wild comprises a small yet dedicated team of four—based in New Delhi and Ukhrul—who source produce from farmers across seven villages: Sirarakhong chillies from Sirarakhong village; soybeans from Chingjaroi village; sumac foraged from Ningthi and Tusom villages; Naga King Chilli from Tamenglong and Chahong villages; and Naga red chillies, black sesame, and zanthoxylum (Sichuan pepper) from Tuensang village.

 

These villages—part of the Indo-Burma Biodiversity Hotspot—each have a distinctive microclimate which impacts the produce and its taste. As one moves northwards to more hilly regions, the climate changes drastically. Ukhrul, which is only 80 kilometres away from Imphal, experiences an entirely different climate—misty, rainy, and sunny with ample forest cover—which helps in the cultivation of unique produce. This includes plums that are both sweet and tart; the flavourful and pleasantly acidic Kachai lemon; and the searing hot Sirarakhong chilli.

 

Over the years, the climate crisis has altered weather patterns and engendered forest degradation, which has, in turn, affected produce in the region. According to Zeinorin, if one wants to keep enjoying good produce, there is an immediate need to restore our degraded biodiversity. Hill Wild, together with local farmers, has taken steps to rewild 20 hectares of barren land in Manipur’s Teinem village. They also document traditional knowledge practised by indigenous communities—which plays a major role in preserving the ecosystem—disseminating this information to those who might need help in developing their agricultural skills.

Along with Sirarakhong chillies from Sirarakhong village, Hill Wild also sources Naga red chillies from Tuensang village.
Once harvested, Sirarakhong chillies are dried on a bamboo mat which is placed above a slow fire.

The Locavore Bite

TL Bite offers a glimpse into how a partner producer runs their operations, and reflects their core principles and values. The idea is to provide insights into their practices and highlight their positive efforts descriptively. We have identified seven key areas of assessment – origin and source of ingredients, composition and integrity of the products, workforce policies, production practices, community-related initiatives, approach towards preserving or celebrating traditional knowledge and the materials used in packaging. While this assessment may not be entirely comprehensive, we hope it helps you make an informed decision about why you might want to support them, and the ways in which to do so.

 

The information below offers you a snapshot of where Hill Wild stands on these parameters. We have put this together based on several rounds of conversations with Zeinorin Angkhang. Click on a piece of the pie below to find out more.

Women harvest Sirarakhong chilli during August and September.
Hill Wild often organises meet-ups and get-togethers—like this one in Teinem village—for the Naga community.

Why We Love Hill Wild

  • Preserving ancestral knowledge: Hill Wild adopts indigenous agricultural practices rooted in traditional knowledge to help preserve biodiversity and maintain a sustainable diet. They rely on rainfed farming, and use bio-indicators to determine sowing practices and harvest cycles. For instance, hailstorm—locally known as ‘horam’—in March, signifies a good harvest. Small birds that visit the fields during the chilli harvest season are another example of a bio-indicator. Farmers in the region believe that these birds know how to determine high-quality chilli; they rely on them to select superior seeds—which is what good yield, production, and longevity depends on—by choosing ripe chillies which are already eaten by the birds.
  • Rewilding barren land: Currently, Hill Wild is in the process of rewilding 20 hectares of deforested land in Manipur’s Teinem village. They collaborate with elder, more experienced farmers in the region, relying on their wealth of ancestral knowledge and guidance to draw out a plan for rewilding. Hill Wild’s approach to rewilding is two-fold—short-term and long-term. The short-term plan involves growing plants like tree tomato that yield well in hilly regions in a span of about two-three years, and help villagers generate income. For a more sustainable future—and to help retain water and prevent soil erosion—they have planted indigenous fruit trees such as lemon and black cherry, which take about five years to grow. 
  • Advocating for indigenous produce: While Zeinorin was in Boston, United States in 2016, she continued advocating for flavours and food from back home. This spurred the creation of Hill Wild’s Naga Supper Club, where they invite people to taste traditional Naga food. All dishes on the menu—such as Perilla seeds salad, pork curry, soyabean salad, Anishi curry, lemon sauce, and black rice Kheer—feature ingredients that are directly sourced from farmers in Manipur’s Ukhrul district and Tuensang village in Nagaland. Hill Wild has hosted three supper clubs in New Delhi, and four across New York and Boston. Beyond the tasting, these events introduce attendees to Indigenous Peoples’ food systems, and their impact on our biodiversity, diets, and ecosystem. 

Has there been a shift in people’s perception towards Indigenous People’s food systems and practices from Northeast India in the last five years? How do you envision this changing in the future?

There is a shift in perception and a deeper understanding of Indigenous Peoples’ food systems. For example, people are engaging more in such dialogues now, and are accepting the idea of consuming seasonal produce as well as indigenous ingredients. This change has to be tackled with a balanced view of protecting Indigenous ecosystems even while sharing; one day it can become so trendy and disrupt the whole food system in a particular region. We don’t need disruption. We need balance and harmony, which is key to Indigenous Peoples’ sustainable way of life. 

 

— Zeinorin Angkang, Co-founder of Hill Wild

Talui garlic farmer Nganunglei, Zeinorin, and her friend (from left to right) celebrate Women’s Day in Talui village in Manipur’s Ukhrul district.

Products We Recommend

Naga Chilli Crisp

A one-of-a-kind condiment that explores culinary similarities between Northeast India and Southwest China, the Naga Chilli Crisp is an amalgamation of indigenous ingredients like fermented soybean, Naga Hau chilli, Sirarakhong chilli, and Tangkhul spring salt, to name a few. The sweetness from onions, umami from the fermented soybean, and the floral notes of Sichuan peppercorns perfectly balance the intense heat of the chillies. This chilli crisp will add a zing to almost any meal—be it a humble bowl of dal-rice or fritters made with seasonal local veggies.
Buy Now

Sirarakhong Chilli Powder

The GI-tagged Sirarakhong chillies have a uniquely rich, smoky flavour. Grown exclusively in Sirarakhong village in Manipur’s Ukhrul district, these chillies are dried over smoke on bamboo mats, which lends them a deep, smoky aroma. This warm chilli powder is best used for garnishing dishes, or in the early stages of cooking, especially for an umami kick.
buy now

How to Buy

If you would like to learn more about Hill Wild, or try their products, check out their website. If you’re interested in supporting them in other ways, please contact us at connect@thelocavore.in.

 

At The Locavore, we strive to keep the practices of a producer transparent and honest across all forms of partnerships.

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Related Topics
  • Hill Wild
  • indigenous produce
  • Manipur
  • nagaland
  • north east India
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