This dish brings together two preparations that are intrinsic to everyday coastal home-cooking in the Konkan region: Bhirind Nustem, a kokum-steamed fish, and Maskasangi Thalasan, a slow-cooked semolina and drumstick preparation. While both are rooted in modest, household ingredients, their flavours are deep, shaped by landscape and availability.
Locally known locally as bhirind, kokum is central to the foodways of coastal Maharashtra and Goa. Its sourness is soft, lingering, and fruit-forward—starkly different from the sharper acidity of tamarind or lime. When used to cook fish, kokum does not overpower; instead, it scents the flesh with a tang and a gentle floral bitterness.
Arjun Singh’s version places the fish and drumsticks side by side, akin to the sea meeting the tree in the backyard.
For the Bhirind Nustem (Kokum Fish)
| Dried Dry red chillies | 10–12 |
|---|---|
| Turmeric powder | 1 tablespoon |
| Coriander seeds | 2 tablespoons |
| Garlic | 1 pod |
| Ginger | a 1-inch piece |
| Salt | to taste |
| Warm water | 1/4 cup |
| Coconut oil | 2 tablespoons |
| Lepa (tongue sole), cleaned and skinned | 6, small to medium |
| Dried kokum | 30 pieces (approx.) |
For the Maskasangi Thalasan (Moringa-Semolina Preparation)
| Sesame oil | 1/2 cup |
|---|---|
| Mace | 1 medium piece |
| Moringa (drumsticks), cut into long pieces | 500 grams |
| Turmeric powder | 3/4 teaspoon |
| Red chilli powder | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| Salt | to taste |
| Semolina | 1/2 cup |
What You Will Need
Blender; Heavy-bottomed kadhai; Deep frying pan; Kitchen towel
Instructions
First, soak the dried red chillies in warm water for 10-15 minutes. This softens them and makes grinding easier.
In a blender, add the soaked chillies, turmeric powder, coriander seeds, garlic, ginger, and salt. Grind to form a smooth paste. Add a small amount of warm water or a little coconut oil only as needed to achieve a thick, spreadable paste.
Pat the cleaned and skinned fish dry using a clean kitchen towel. If desired, trim the sides of the fish for easier eating.
Using a small sharp knife, make shallow slits on both sides of each fish. This helps the marinade flavour the flesh fully.
Coat each fish generously and evenly with the prepared masala paste. Make sure some of the paste goes into the slits.
Place the marinated fish in a covered container and refrigerate for at least 2-3 hours. While the fish marinates, prepare the Maskasangi Thalasan.
To make the Maskasangi Thalasan, place a kadhai on medium heat and add the sesame oil. Allow it to warm for about 1 minute.
Add the mace and stir briefly to release its aroma.
Add the moringa to the kadhai and stir to coat them in the oil.
Sprinkle in the turmeric powder and red chilli powder. Mix well so the drumsticks are evenly coated in the spices.
Sauté for 2-3 minutes, stirring continuously to prevent the moringa from burning.
Add salt to taste.
Add the semolina and stir well. Reduce the heat to low.
Cook on low to medium heat for approximately 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The semolina will gradually toast and the drumsticks will soften.
Once the drumsticks are soft and the mixture is cooked through, remove the kadhai from the heat and set aside.
When ready to cook the fish, place a wide frying pan on medium heat and add three-quarters of the coconut oil.
Spread two-thirds of the kokum pieces in the pan to form a bed and warm them until they release an aroma.
Place the marinated fish gently onto the kokum bed. Do not overcrowd the pan; cook in batches, if needed.
Scatter the remaining kokum pieces on top of the fish.
Add the warm water and remaining coconut oil, then immediately cover the pan with a lid.
Cook the fish for five to seven minutes on each side without stirring.
Turn off the heat and allow the fish to rest for one to two minutes before serving.
Serve the fish on a kokum bed with the semolina drumsticks on the side.
Tips:
- Tongue sole is delicate, so make sure to use a wide spatula to turn the fish. Avoid flipping more than once to prevent it from breaking.
- Cook the fish on medium to low heat to prevent the kokum from getting scorched and so that the fish cooks evenly in its own steam.
- Keep the flame low while cooking the Thalasan; the semolina should toast gradually, picking up a nutty flavour without browning.
Arjun Singh is a cancer surgeon at Tata Memorial Hospital, Mumbai, where he works across clinical practice, research, and public policy. Outside the hospital, he enjoys cooking, and is a volunteer with The Mumbai Koli Project by The Locavore. Read more about the project here.
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