Bandel Cheese
What is it?
Bandel cheese is distinctly salty, its pronounced aroma traditionally stemming from smoking it over cow dung cakes. It has a crumbly, dry texture, similar to feta or queijo fresco, and is usually shaped into small, thick discs about 3 inches in diameter. Made from fresh cow’s milk curd that is acid-coagulated using lemon juice or similar souring agents, the curd is kneaded, thoroughly strained, and preserved entirely with salt, giving the cheese a sharp, stable flavour that does not melt when heated.
What other names does it have?
Regional Names: Bandel Cheese (English), Bandal Panir (Bengali)
When is it in season?
Where is it found?
Bandel cheese is produced in small batches in Chak Chand village in the Kotulpur block of Bankura district in West Bengal, about 105 kilometres west of Bandel. It is made from locally sourced cow’s milk, curdled with a closely guarded acidic agent, then moulded in salt-dipped cloths, dried, and traditionally smoked over cow-dung fires. The cheese is made by the Ghosh family, who has passed down this method over generations. Today, the craft is largely maintained by Palash Ghosh, an 11th-generation cheesemaker, who continues to prepare and supply the cheese to select vendors in Kolkata’s New Market, choosing to preserve the traditional process over pursuing large-scale commercial production.
What is its history/cultural significance?
Bandel cheese traces its origins to the late 16th century, when Portuguese traders established a settlement at Bandel, near the Hooghly River. As noted by Dr. Bera, Associate Professor at Jadavpur University, this cheese was introduced almost 500 years ago, at a time when cheese was not part of the established dietary practices in the region. Known for their skills in confectionery and dairy curdling techniques, the Portuguese adapted their methods to local conditions, influencing Bengal’s culinary landscape in lasting ways.
The social and cultural exchange that facilitated this adaptation is significant. Historical accounts suggest that Portuguese men formed relationships with local women, many of whom were hereditary cooks and confectioners. Through these domestic and working relationships, knowledge of curdling, dairy handling, and sweet-making began to circulate more widely. French traveller François Bernier, writing about Bengal in the mid-17th century, observed the distinctively Portuguese influence in sweet preparations in regions where they lived and traded. Source.
The cheese-making technique used for Bandel resembles the method employed to make chhena, where cow’s milk is curdled using lemon juice or another acidic agent to separate curd from whey. The curd is then moulded, drained, and left to dry, producing a firm, crumbly cheese. Its high salt content functions as a preservative, allowing it to store well in humid conditions. The smoked version of Bandel cheese, believed to have been introduced by the Dutch to extend its shelf life on long maritime journeys, carries a distinctive smoky flavour derived from traditional cow-dung-fuelled firing. Source.
How can you use it?
To consume Bandel cheese, one must soak it in water overnight to reduce some of its brackish, salty sharpness. Once softened, it can be crumbled into salads, added to sandwiches, or used as a finishing cheese over pasta or roasted vegetables. The smoked variant pairs well with warm dishes. As it does not melt, it works best as a crumble, garnish, or flavouring component rather than a melting cheese.
What states can I find it in?
Is it nutritious?
Bandel cheese provides high protein, calcium for bones, and probiotics from raw milk fermentation. It is low in lactose but high in sodium from salting.
How do you store it?
Salted or smoked discs of Bandel cheese can be stored for several months in cool, dry ambient conditions due to their high salt and low moisture content. However, once soaked to soften or desalt, they should be wrapped in wax paper (not plastic) and refrigerated, where they will keep for a shorter period.
Stories:
Bandel is an East Indian Cheese You’ll Want to Try (If You Can Find It) by A Cheese Professor
This article details Ghosh family’s lockdown losses and chef innovations, noting its role in breaking milk taboos.
Bandel Cheese in Kolkata – Hidden Gem available in New Market by Avishek, Discovering Kolkata
The article is about Bandel Cheese — a salty, crumbly cheese native to Bengal, its Portuguese colonial history, its unique characteristics, and where to buy it in Kolkata’s New Market.
Recipes:
Ema Datshi with Bandel Cheese Recipe by Diary of Petuk Bong
‘Know Your Desi Ingredients’ is an ever-expanding repository of knowledge for ingredients that are native to the Indian subcontinent and adapted into the mainstream culinary narratives of people, places, and cultures across India. If you would like to share more information about the write-ups featured here, send us an email at connect@thelocavore.in with your inputs and any verified sources we should look into.
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