Gali Kababian near Jama Masjid in Old Delhi is bustling with eateries and stalls offering everything from succulent kebabs to the rose-sweetened Mohabbat ka Sharbat. However, during the holy month of Ramadan every year, the street takes on a different rhythm, with delicacies appearing only with the crescent moon and vanishing with its fading light. Among them is Khajla, a crisp, golden-brown delight eaten at Sehri—a pre-dawn meal providing sustenance to those who observe the day-long fasts.
Brothers Mohammad Rehan and Mohammad Farhan have been selling Khajla for over 30 years, right next to the famous Karim’s, carrying on the legacy of their late father, Mijaz Ahmad, who founded ‘Farhan Confectionery’ in 1995. For the remaining 11 months of the year, the bakery sells rusks and sevaiyan, but during Ramadan, the attention shifts solely to Khajla. Making Khajla is no mean feat. The kaarigars who specialise in the craft travel from Uttar Pradesh every year, with fewer hands remaining to carry forward this culinary tradition, one that has been passed over generations.
There was a time when shops selling Khajla lined the entire gali, much like the bright red semal flowers that bloom in the street behind it during this time of the year. Today, only a handful of shops keep the tradition alive. At 80 rupees a piece, the Khajla carries the weight of both history and rising costs—an indulgence not everyone can afford. Mohammad Rehan and his family enjoy Khajla with khoya, or dipped in milk, or in chashni. As Eid draws near, the last Khajla rests on a worn brass plate, and with the moon’s parting light, the Khajla fades too—gone until next Ramadan returns to call it home.
| All-purpose flour, sieved | 1½ cups |
|---|---|
| Salt | 1 teaspoon |
| Oil | 1½ teaspoon |
| Lukewarm water | as needed |
| Ghee, melted | 3 tablespoon |
| Cornflour | 1½ tablespoon |
| Oil | for frying |
What You Will Need
Kadhai; Rolling pin; Mixing bowls
Instructions
Sieve the flour into a large bowl to remove any lumps.
Add salt and oil, then slowly add the lukewarm water, kneading until a tight, firm dough is formed. It should not be too soft or sticky.
Apply a light layer of oil over the dough, then cover it with a damp cloth and let it rest for 15 minutes. This helps relax the gluten, making it easier to roll.
In a small bowl, mix the melted ghee and cornflour until you get a smooth, lump-free paste. Set aside for later use.
Once the dough has rested, roll it out into a thin, even sheet using a rolling pin.
Spread the ghee-cornflour mixture evenly over the surface with your hands; alternatively, you can also use a pastry brush. This mixture helps create the signature flaky layers.
Carefully roll the sheet lengthwise, like a cinnamon roll, forming a tight log.
Cover and let the rolled dough rest for 10 minutes so as to hold its shape.
Cut the rolled dough into 2-inch log-shaped pieces. Each piece will reveal visible layers on both the top and bottom.
Take each piece, twist the bottom end once, and tuck it in with your fingers to seal it. This prevents the layers from separating too much while frying.
Place each shaped piece on your palm and gently flatten the bottom.
Cover and let the pieces rest for another 10 minutes—at this stage, they will resemble the dough used to make lachcha paratha.
Roll each piece into a thin, round disc, like a roti.
Heat oil in a deep pan over medium-high heat.
Carefully place the khajla in the hot oil with the top-layer side facing up.
As it fries, continuously spoon hot oil over the top—this helps the layers bloom and open up. Fry until golden brown and crisp.
Drain any excess oil and place the khajla on a wire rack or paper towel.
Once cool, enjoy the khajla with chashni (sugar syrup), milk, dried fruits, khoya, or as is.
Variations:
The khajla can also be fried in ghee instead of oil. This will lend a richer flavour to the khajla, while resulting in an even flakier texture.
Mohammad Rehan owns the humble, family-run Farhan Confectionery in Gali Kababian in Jama Masjid, Old Delhi. Named after his brother Farhan, the duo have been selling sweet biscuits and sevaiyan for more than 30 years.
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